A Rock

Pure Bliss V9: My first online video

2012-01-05T19:20:00.000-08:00

Pure Bliss V9 from Ander Rockstad on Vimeo.

Let me know what you all think

AnderRockstad

Europa Files: Part V Fontainebleau

2012-01-05T12:58:00.000-08:00

Me, Making the front page of the Tahoe Paper while sending the amazing 'Welcome to the Future V12'

A photo of small amazing area in Switzerland from a great friend and fellow bone crusher Gu Jorg

So after leaving Switzerland we made the drive to Font. We passed through the border in Basel which is where a place that sounds interesting. The overall area is called the Baseljura. This is just one of those amazing thing s about Europe and the depth and richness of their climbing heritage as it holds some of the earliest 8b & 8b+ routes in the world.
We continued on into the French high way system, which is quite expensive until we made it to Font. I seem to have a gravitational pull to this amazing place. I feel a real affinity to this place a real thirst that leads me to devise ways in which to live there instead of just mere trips. I am sure you have a heard the reasons for its excellence. It holds the amazing stone, the most developed concentration of Font grade 7 & 8 in the world(read V6 to V15) and a beautiful French cultural experience to boot.
We were able to find a nice country gite close to one of the older areas of the vast forest called Buthiers. This was a great place to get some climbing in because since Font rains a lot it's one of the quicker drying areas. This turned out to be quite the gift as we were able to climb on a couple of amazing boulders even when most of the forest was wet. I was able to send my first 8A in the forest, which translates roughly to V11.
This particular trip to Font was quite bi-polar in the way of weather, in that it was particularly rainy and we had to deal! But this made for some very interesting rainy day missions to Paris where many conflicting situations arose that have only become terribly hilarious upon the respite of blogging.
The end of the trip was a mix of good and frustrating as well. The other travel mates, Noah and Ryan took off ten days earlier than I and I stayed the duration with my beautiful French Family within the forest. This experience is a happy beautiful one but the weather that accompanied was less beautiful in that the projects that had become so near and dear myself were perpetually wet. Ce La Vie dans la Foret. But I love it all, the family, the friends, the rock and of course the immersion into speaking french again.
AR-I will add some photos from the recent past.

A Switerland wrap up and attemp at objective evaluation

2011-12-16T06:47:00.000-08:00

So I am with the group now in Fontainebleau. Yes that of course means that we left Switzerland and Austria. I feel like it is a good time to share my personal reaction and my attempt at an objective critical point of view on these climbing areas instead of just adding to the climbing interweb-o-spheres ravings of 'Switzerland is sick brah' and 'Best rock ever' and 'I am gonna climb 8B here for sure'(optional brah to be added to last statement). While these previous statements are rooted in truth and surely passed out of my mouth over my stay I will try to add a little depth and understanding for all the armchar climbers out there(read; said armchair climber is me when not on occasional trip).
Magic Wood-For sure a must visit. It is far and away the best in sense of density. Also coming from america where granite bouldering means the like of Yosemite and the up and coming Leavenworth, it is really amazing to find pure granite climbing ON HOLDS and STEEP FACES. Yes yes these last statements are true and not blown out of proportion. One feature of MW is that I have never seen hard(read 8A to 8C) boulders so greasy and polished and when you add this to the condition dependent nature of the moisture in the valley can make for some very psyched and yet frustrating days.
The range and diversity of texture held within one climbing area is amazing as well because you have river polished all the way to gritty crimps.
Cresciano- This area is interesting in that we all have come to know it for the one very steep famous boulder that hold Dreamtime and The Story of 2 Worlds, you may call the later 'the story' if you feel cool enough to act burdened by saying the full name. But the truth is that although there are some steep boulders in this area, that are incredible of course, this area is truly a granite area reminiscent of Yosemite and needs appropriate conditions. Because of the hillside nature and completely southern facing feature of Cresciano the winter time is best and we were unable to see its full glory. The amount of climbing wasn’t as staggering as other areas. The rock ranged from much more crystalie in nature than one would ever expect all the way to immaculate.
Chironico- This climbing was by far the biggest of the Ticino areas and this is one of the most impressive features. Just the sheer quantity is enough to dedicate large amounts of time. The rock on the other hand is by far the most bi-polar I have seen in a major area. Climbs like Freak Brothers, Confessions of a Crap Artist and Conquistador are second to none but in most areas you could find truly junky lines close by. The setting is a little more urbanized than I expected in such an immaculate climbing area. There are so many lines and thus the number of ones amazing and crappy are both very high.
Brione- Yes, it is true, this is actually not only the coolest but for sure the best rock I have ever seen. This is granite with the texture of sandstone and the diversity of river sectors to grassy pastures of boulder gardens. This is surly the most amazing climbing sector I have ever seen, ever. The truth is that in my attempt to be critical the area is small and spread out with no topo. If one doesn't want to session on 8A's and harder there os little reason to commit a lot of time other than the fact that it hold the single best 7C in the world known as Molunk. The setting unsurpassed by any and the ambiance is pure Swiss magic.

Europa Files: Part III

2011-11-04T13:38:00.000-07:00

The Amazing Local Water of Andeer (All Photos provided graciously by Noah Rayburn)

The namesake

Send the classic 'Jack the Chipper V9/7C' in a couple tries

WOW, so there is a simple truth when dealing with Switzerland and its 'best granite in the world'. #1 the aforementioned statement is 100% true #2 The prices on everything range from uncomfortably high all the way to outrageous #3 The weather can make or break your trip seemingly without any rhythm, in fact I would describe the weather as arrhythmic.
The weather booted from the Averstal area(ie Magic Wood) before the projects were finished and for me that really caused me to reevaluate the whole trip and timing to be much more focused on a sampling attitude instead of anything in the multiple day project range. Because of this switch the weather has been less stressful because I usually dont feel the need to return to anyone boulder. That being said I have done all the moves to several boulders that are in the V11 and V12 range so we will see what the timing, group, and rain have to say about it.
Given the extremely short windows of climbable weather in Ticino and Switzerland in general I haven't not felt like I have explored real maximum movement for me but I still have managed some absolutely world class bloks with sending, The Komilator V11/8A, Molunk V9/7C, Höhenrausch V8/7B+ and onsighting the incredable and scary Black Mirror slab V?.
I have added some pictures and I believe that the internet will be much more consistent so I plan on sharing much more.
As the weather has not been cooperating in Ticino we have bailed to a friends place in Austria and have hoping to explore the amazing areas that are not covered in snow yet.

Europa Files: Part II-Media for a little grill time

2011-10-03T06:56:00.000-07:00

The Clio, which like her amazing fortune telling skills also has an amazing ability to fit everything inside of her

A nice link on the amazing Occtupussy 8A in the sun before jet lag set in any more

Just plain Psyched
All photos taken by Noah 'Ranger' Rayburn

Europa Files: Part I

2011-10-01T08:50:00.000-07:00

So here we are, Switzerland. The trip one dreams about. But there are so many dissecting realities at work when you deal in the business of chasing dreams. Starting with the amount of freedom that one gives up in order to make enough money in order to travel to this most expensive of destinations. In true fashion to my past I figured how to take a half cargo and half passenger flight over the north pole from Alaska to Germany for US$375 one way. This flight left from the biggest city in AK which means at the last minute I had to scramble to get a ride the 500 mile distance and of course I work up until the last day so it was a stressful experience to say the least. I arrived in Frankfurt and immediately started to seek out the buses that go south that I was told about but these buses in fact do not exist so I was left with a very expensive train option. Now here I thought that trains were the transport of the people and a method move the proletariat but perhaps to no longer as they are even more expensive than flight within Europa. After a few canceled trains and a few missed trains due to states of delirium, I finally made it Zurich to meet up with the car(Clio) that is to be the chariot for the trip!
We stayed a night with friends in Zurich and cruised the streets lamenting on each others experiences getting this trip together. In the morning we woke up and chomped up on the Raw Cacoa and were off to the races(metaphorically that is). WHAT A BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY SWITZERLAND IS! It was dangerous to drive and keep your eyes on the road. After not to long we made it the Avers Valley home to the very Famous Magic Wood.
We immediately stopped at the hostel we were to stay at but the proprietor changed his mind about the price he would offer us and this we have decided to camp for a while until we figure it out a little bit. This sounds fine but as this was to be my break out trip in the sense of class in the transport and accommodations I didn't bring a sleeping bag. We went out for a long warm up that afternoon to limber up and did a nice moderate, 'Blown Away 7B+' second try. I decided to top it out despite the wetness and the fact that most people do not. Afterwords we walked around in the night and just realized that all of these dream boulder do in fact exist!! What a funny but honest realization that was. I mean it not like these boulders never existed but in my own mental landscape they were just pieces of media until you actually get to touch them and see that they are real!
That first night was a real disaster on the other hand, turns out slipping in a puff jacket alone in the alps is not enough insulation and I spent the whole night shaking and awake. But enough about that. I decided enough at about 4AM and just started walking in the woods to keep warm until 11AM when my friends woke up and then we headed into the woods for our intended purpose, bouldering. It was extremely hot as there is a heatwave happening in Switz right now so I got myself up a very tall and scary 7A+ for a warm up and then we headed to Octupussy 8A? to see what the program was. Noah and myself did all the moves in the blazing heat and some links as well. By the time we were spent the temps started to cool and we wondered why we so poorly strategical on the temps and schedule. Lesson learned and we are very excited to get back. Now we are resting and I am not yet feeling myself physically and mentally I am also sort out some blockages so I am very excited to see whats in store for me/us when a beautiful rhythm is established. Until the next interweb post here is some media for you! Psyched and getting more psyched AR

There, back, and there again

2011-06-07T21:10:00.000-07:00

The Return, it is a central theme in the literary catalog of emotional composition. The main character always seems to have evaded some sort of reality and this brings on the Return. Although in our lives we find many returns and I guess that we can hope for is that we great about the time once spent as we reflect in the time we are spending currently. All this to say a lot has been incoming and outgoing. Lets break it down.
-In the last couple weeks I have climbed my hardest and most amazing boulder
-Evaded death in a freak snow storm in the Sierra's on May 15th(WTF right)
-I worked on the house that I lived in through highschool(crazy old energy). Didn't get to sleep bc always work all the time work. --Met my mothers new husband to be
-Climbed V8 soaking wet in the rain on the one day I had to climb in the last three weeks
-Experienced very unpleasant angry family members(LAME)
-Flew down to Argentina to have a reunion with my brother and have been having some of the most amazing & incredible days and of course nights but unfortunately there is still little sleep going around.
The return to my old emotional landscapes such as highschool neighborhood or South America, which is where I went to separate timelines in my life has been wild and amazing. So much to say and there will be more pictures and words to post soon.
Be happy, be psyched
AR

Progressively Upward Cycles of Life & Performance

2011-03-04T16:57:00.000-08:00

So as the title may omit, there has been some ups and down of late but what is perhaps the most inspiring thing of all is that the bottom of each cycle seems to be higher than the last. To me this seems the most exciting news of all because it shows progression and allows me to accept time off or a 'down-cycle', with greater ease and hopefully grace.
The last post I had was of time in Bishop. That leg of the trip was amazing with sending, great friends, and just super high psyche. But alas, finances intruded and I needed to go to Salt Lake City for work and no climbing for two weeks. Needless to say this was a forced down-cycle but a necessary one to make money and travel to more spots.
After the hurricane of work, that was up to 18 hours a day ended it was time to explore some climbing in the Las Vegas area, namely Red Rocks. After two weeks of no sleep, lots of work, birthday celebrations compounded by spending all day in a convention center with thousands of people from all over the world my immune system was haggard and when I got to Red Rocks I could barely climb V9 without vomiting and getting dizzy so I guess it was time for another down-cycle and some more rest. Then after about two weeks of that I tried climbing again and felt really good, I did some V7's to warm up and then I took a big fall and missed my pad from about 20 feet. A silly mistake really, just a foot pic and a problem that should really be climbed with some friends and not a solo endeavor. The pain was truly excruciating and even surprisingly so, since the heel bone is so far from the brain and the central nervous system the pain was distant but also at the same time horrendous and debilitating. I figured I would take an hour and try and call it day but after the wait. I tried to walk only to immediately collapse. A bad sign. I ended up getting carried out by a couple of elderly sport climbers that luckily(for me) were just walking by. It was actually quite hilarious how debilitated I was and the logistics of moving a six foot plus individual proved quite daunting, as I am sure any Search and Rescue worker can tell you.
So the sad realization hit, that I had just ended two consecutive down-cycles and it appeared that there would be yet another. sigh. So this one took another two weeks which was primarily occupied by reading and researching health topics and existential philosophy pursuits. Not a total wash plus MEGA soul brother Zack Rubin AKA Zaych Money came out from LA for some bro time and to climb as well. I was determined to hang with my buddie and provide him some release from the city time, so within the two days of climbing we shared I crutched a distance no less than 5 miles and actually climbed a V9? called Drunken Monkey. It was pretty surprising but is the essence of this post's title and an inspiration in itself that amidst weeks of bed rest and injury I could still climb this level in a couple tries. The down-cycles are natural part of anyones path and when you can see the elevation of your bottom point rise it's as exciting as the peaks!
I have now migrated to the St. George area and have been exploring while getting back into it now that my foot can fit inside a FiveTen Dragon again. YES!! In the last couple of days of climbing I have sent "Gription V9', 'Linder's Roof V9', 'Bazooka Tooth V10' with a dice direct method. All of the climbs in the V8 and under range have been going in one or two tries which has been great to build up a nice base again. I am very excited now that I am feeling better and excited to see what manifests next. Learning the cycles and loving them. More to Come.
AR

Rocket Parties, the Big Chill, and Boulder Scampering

2011-01-11T17:47:00.000-08:00

The story starts with the impending doom and gloom of raining hitting the camper shell that I live in. The reports said that this rain would cover the entire western US for a whole week. So if you read this blog with any consistency you have noticed that I have a friend named Zack and he designs rockets, yes, rockets that go to space. Zack gave me a call and tole me that his company had launched a successful rocket and that they were gonna throw a giant party for the occasion, they also decided to couple this with a company wide Christmas party. The party was to be outrageous including the $200K price tag. Zack told me over the phone that he had a ticket for me in, the only problem is that it was in LA and after a budget crushing vehicle maintenance set back I had I could not afford to drive down, so what does that mean...it means a hitchhiking adventure, in the rain no less.ha. This scenario had the making for adventure and as the climbing was off the table regardless I figured, 'might as well party with rocket scientists in the city of angels' and it was off for me. I was able to catch a ride with a good friend Mason Daly out of Bishop and then caught a couple other rides and found how distraught the public transport in LA really is. Plus, even though the city sits on the pacific ocean it has no idea how to deal with rain and thus the whole scene was flooded, just adding to the hilarity of the situation. I also got to walk through Compton in the rain with a soaked puff jacket, that was interesting. But alas I made it to the rocket party and it was MEGA to say the least and I raged face on the scene of highly paid number crunching rocket types.
I will write more about this adventure later because I assume you want to hear about the really fun boulders that I have been climbing recently.
First off bc the Buttermilks have proven to be just epic to climb at this trip I have developed a matured eye for the tablelands, which has led me to enjoy some really amazing movement on everything from bullet hard to marginal rock quality. I have also been climbing at couple of the tablelands areas that are not so well known but contain amazing climbing none the less. The theme of late is been to climb thing fast and not project, just enjoy the climbing and mix in lots of rest days where I have been juggling the soccer ball a lot. I sent 'Standing Kill Order V11' in a couple tries which was really fun and amazing bc the movement is outrageous that same day while supporting a friend on 'Acid Wash' I was able to whip off the 'Acid Wash Right V9' first try. I was also able to flash the most amazing climb, 'The Wave V7', arguably the best 7 in the Bishop area. And yesterday I was able to finish 'March of the Pigs V11' first try of the the third session and its neighbor 'Nine Inch Nails V9' in a couple tries and the movement master piece 'The Rose V8' as it was getting dark. It has been so much fun climbing all these amazing movement based problems. The coffee shop in which I am typing is closing so this will have to wait but there is more to come. Love and enjoy 2011 my friends.
AR

The Road...the revelation of being and the quintessential state of floating

2010-12-12T13:41:00.000-08:00

Photo by Axel
I have spent a great deal of time in the great white north. I was able to reflect and analyze on the experience of living and have gracefully not reached a conclusion but instead working theories about being, cycles and a non-linear trajectory about life/time.

It has been my great pleasure to touch rock and in a meaningful way again. I arrived in SLC a few weeks ago and was able to get in a few session before the impending winter season arrived. In the two sessions I had I was able to climb some great problems including, BarFly V8, Butt Trumpet V8, Bear Hug SDS V8, Surprise V8, Lance's Dihedral V6, all of which are excellent problems and the latter four being among the best of the grade anywhere. It was an amazing experience to occupy the canyon with the temperatures not in the nineties as all my other forays had involved. LCC or 'little' as it is known to the locals is truly an amazing climbing playground full of kinesthetic beauty that can rival some of the great destinations of the sport. The tragic flaw seems to be the temperamental conditions that not only guard sending but also can close windows of climbing for months on end.

I made a break for it to Bishop when the storms were seeming to piggie back each other and there was no hope for dry rock.

Bishop ironically enough has been quite warm. The time I spent recently in AK stands as my longest hiatus from the sport and although my mind is fresh and excited for the opportunity my body and bio rhythm is seemingly in a disconnect but perhaps that is one of the necessary learning curves to climbing with life long longevity.

I have really only been able to climb one day on and then occur several rest days. I was able to send 'Acid Wash V10' very fast and have tried the 'Xavier's Roof V11' which has gone quite well and holds lots of excitement.

The temperatures only seem to be climbing so I will take advantage of this beautiful vitamin D producing circle that seems to occupy the sky and explore with some extended hiking. Hopefully more soon. Ander.

AK Bouldering Adventure Photo Dump

2010-08-06T21:44:00.001-07:00

Sending Bryan on his first hitch hiking mission
Zack eyeing down the first move of 'Darth Mal V7' in the Tatlanika Boulders
Tom going up the perfect angle of 'School Yard Crush V4' in the Coming of Age Sector
A view of the valley from the Coming of Age Sector, lots more work to do

AK Bouldering Adventure Photo Dump

2010-08-05T22:05:00.000-07:00

I call this picture 'Patience'
this the mega radness that I FA'ed and called 'Carnal Knowledge V9'
Me completing the compression goodness of 'King Louie SDS V10'
Tom sending the amazing 'Captain Kaboom V6'
A shot of independence Mine

AK Bouldering Adventure Part III

2010-08-05T22:01:00.000-07:00

At about the mid point on trip we decided that Hatchers Pass that was worth a visit regardless of the weather. We just had to know so we drove into the night and had an amazing 2am twilight approach and were very impressed with the beauty and climbing potential.

We had an amazing first day where we checked out a very short and stout boulder called the Crucifix Bloc bc it was one of the only boulders that we had the beat on and thought it would be nice to see what the locals were visioning on the amazing granite that abounds in those passes. I have to admit that I thought the area was absolutely beautiful but when I climbed on that boulder was a little bummed and so I went for a hike and kept having the shrinking boulder syndrome and was starting to think Hatchers was not to be the Shangri La that I had envisioned. So after a couple of hours at that bloc where the guys crushed all the bunchy crimper problems we decied to really get into scouring for boulders mode. As chance has it we happened upon where all the locals have been recently developing and is basically the fresh and new new. The rock for the most part was exceptionally sharp but some very classic lines were around. We were lucky enough to run into some locals, Todd, Drew and Will give us some direction onto the classics to be had and we spent the last couple hours Climbing the amazing 'Captain Caboom V6', flashing 'Premature V7', and finishing it off with a second ascent of 'King Louie' from the stand which is V8 in the total rain with most of the pads being held over the holds to keep them only moist instead of soaking, pretty reminiscent of my time in Fontainebleau.

I spent the whole next day exploring for new bloks and hopefully a whole new sector while the others had a moderate session. I was very excited because I found an amazing sector that appeared to be not developed at all with some real promising lines and this is what I was super psyched to get back to.

The next day was very dreary and I rallied everybody up by 8 so we could drive down the hill and desperately find a TV that was showing the World Cup Finals. This proved to be very difficult in the rural farming communities of the Matsu Valley of Alaska. But with only missing the very begining of the match we found the diner in town that would tune in for us. The match was amazing and it was a tone of fun to watch powerfully defensive futbal teams go head to head and war it out in extremely physical and political style, I am of course speaking of the referee here.

We used the opportunity to re-stock on supplies. I had exchanged numbers with a local named Drew and e gave us a call to let it be known that the whether was actually quite nice up the hill so we scrambled to get up there and get a half day in. We set Brian out to hitch hike to the airport and push his adventure levels and we were off.

We went back to Independence Mine and made sure that Tom dispatched with 'Captain Caboom v6' which he did and it was in good style no less. Then we head to the Fantasia boulder as Zack was psyched to use his crimp bone and try the 2 V8's on the blok. I also decided to pull on and nearly flashed both the 8's using inpromtu Ander beta and believe they are in the v7 range but of good quality. After a couple of minutes drying the lip in which I blew the flash on I static-ed both climbs second try each. On a personal note I have been training very hard while at home and exclusively climbing on a 65 degree was and thus have no real idea of where my ability is at but I have truly enjoyed feeling more control and strength on the rock, it is genuinely a connected feeling with the geo-puzzle in front of me that motivates this.

After I convinced Tom and Zack to use some gangle beta as I belived the concepts would still apply to them they dispatched and moved on to the King Louie blok so that Tome could try the stand and I could try the sit down start. Long story short after battling with some more rain we were both able to complete our goals in a session. I made the second ascent of both the stand up and the sitdown which is believed to be 'King Louie SDS v10'. It was a really complex problem revolving around compression and tension. I really love this style and was very exited to be able to interact with such amazing climbing in my home state of AK, needless to say it was beautiful raining hike out.

The next day we set out to develop the sector that I had found a couple days previous. AFter mostly brushing for the day we left the area about 15 new climbs that ranged from good to absolutely amazing. I will keep it short as I am sure that all of you have heard about the excitement that comes from developing a thousand times over. But I will say that the area is called the Coming of Age sector and I established a new majestic boulder 'Carnal Knowledge V9'. I am very proud of seeing this line and being able to actualize it in the same session as it was cleaned. Rising to remote and beautiful natural challenges is really becoming the most powerful inspiration in bouldering for me. Enjoy some pictures and let me know what you think.

AK Bouldering Adventure Part II

2010-07-20T21:55:00.000-07:00

So after we checked out the Tatlanika boulder we needed to head back to Fairbanks and pick up new friend Brian Bosac. Perhaps this driving back to Fairbanks was a good thing because for the next couple of days all of AK was raining and we just prepped the car for the adventure to come.

Once we got back on the road we stopped and tracked down the Rock Creek boulders which was far more of a logistical challenge than we were expecting. After a longish approach up a river bed we found the first of the boulders and climbed all of the lines, they were surprisingly quality.

Up the creek we found the main boulder of the area. We all climbed the area classic 'High Water Hippie Pant V5'. Brian earned the Employee of the day award with climbing tis line for his first V5, radical work buddy.

I then spent the rest of the session working on the project that goes of the area on some incredibly marginal pinches and crystal crimps. I believe this arete does go and most likely at a finicky V11 or V12. But with all ultra thin climbing the temps mean everything and perhaps I will try it come the fall and get a better idea of what secrets it holds.

The following day we headed back to Tatlanika boulders so Zack could work on Darth Mal and while were there I tried V9 until I found that it has a manufactured hold. Has chipping really hit the interior of AK?, a funny notion in of itself. We spent the rest of the day looking and trying the rest of the established climbs.

The plan for the next day was to head south and keep our eyes peeled for rock and end up in Byers Lake. During the drive we had several stops and scoured the hill side but nothing yielded hiking the pads up.

I saw some really plentiful and good looking rock just north of Byer Lake but the team decided it was worth it to keep heading to Byers Lake. Long story short we were not blown away with the Byer Lake boulder and decided that against the weather adviseries to make a bid for the mildly established Hatchers Pass.

1st leg of AK Boulder Mission

2010-07-19T13:29:00.000-07:00

AH ALASKA
Hear no evil, think no evil, Tom on spaz patrol

A V9 at Tatlanika
The view from the Tatlanika boulder
I have been in Alaska recently in an effort to get healthy in many ways. I am finally having the oppertunity to train again which has been a blast and is a part of climbing that I truly enjoy. It has been 2 months since I have climbed and this has been my longest hiatus ever since I started this sometimes silly obsession. With all of the steep board climbing I have been doing in my garage I have made dramatic gains but there is just no way of actually knowing in reference to true rock climbing other than to get out and use it, so when dear friends and road tripper veterans Tom Donze and Zaych Rubin expressed interest in vacationing in the wilds of AK and helping me find boulders I thought, 'this is it, lets grab rock again!'.

The first stop was to check out the Tatlanika boulders which were largely developed by friend Tom Ellis. I climbed a really good V7 called Darth Mal while warming up. But what was really a the highlight was establishing a new V5 Slab problem I called the The Sneeze for its dramatic and reflexive climbing. This problem was hidden beneath a few fallen trees and took some major rearranging but what is left is radical and would be at home in the great slabs of Yosemite or Fontainebleau. This is only the first day so stay tuned as I keep the photos running.

Organic Crag Pack Review

2010-06-22T17:54:00.000-07:00

The Mega Zippers that make life easy when you are traveling less than light
Waist belt, chest belt, and good back padding
Classic Organic Style
---------------------------

Show me a single climber that doesn't have a stack of back-packs in front of them. It seems as though back-packs are to climber what shoes are to fashionistas, we only need one and yet somehow we end up with a collection trying to find the perfect shangri-la set up. So when I heard Organic Climbing was making a crag pack I was curious to see whether they had cracked the code.

The verdict? Well, I will start by saying that once I got my Organic Crag Pack I haven't used any other bag. I brought it to France for its initial test and it travels extremely well. As my nature dictates I packed it full and heavy and it was comfortable over the many hours in the airport and connecting flights. When I got to Font I found that everyday I could pack 3 sets of climbing shoes, 2 Knee pads, 4 liters of water bottles, all my food for the day, Chalk bucket and sweatshirt with no problem. It has one sturdy large compartment with no wasted capacity with needless compartments. Beside the trademark bulletproof construction that has become signature with Organic Climbing my favorite feature to the pack is the monster sized burly zippers that make opening and shutting this bag a breeze even with a maximum load.

In review this bag is simple. It is simple in all the right ways that make it the only thing I have to stuff in my pad for the whole day of climbing. It is sturdy and bulletproof and makes it ideal for traveling because it is the last thing you own that can fail. Highly recommend for boulderers and roadtrippers alike.

Font Files: another photo

2010-03-22T10:21:00.000-07:00

Couldn't resist sharing this 7a+ with you

Photo: A. Savage

Font Files: More Photos

2010-03-15T05:12:00.000-07:00

Me trying T-Rex(7c+)
Me on just another amazing unnamed 7a+

Font Files: Photos

2010-03-15T05:05:00.000-07:00

I will take this opportunity to introduce some members of our crew. The first being Steve Maisch
Les Warnock
Gui our local Frenchman aka 'The Method Man'
Homie Justin Wood

Lastly our dearest Kangoo to which all of our pads fit amazingly

Font Files: In the Beginning

2010-03-15T04:26:00.000-07:00

This voyage began in Chattanooga where I was able to get one last day of amazing sandstone bouldering in at LRC. As I was scrambling about to pack for this time in France I remembered a classic human thought, that of ritual as a method of partitioning time. Together as a species we go through graduation ceremonies, birthday celebrations, and new years count downs in order to differentiate between the past and the present thus allowing the future to hold its own charge independent of its predecessor. I find such rituals to be powerful in understanding the futility of dwelling on the past and the liberation in engaging in the new day.

That being said it was off to France and I deemed a separation of stages to be needed and wanted. So I stopped by a bargain bin store and bought a hair buzzer. After finishing my packing I shaved my head and allowed myself to shake the past and bring a brightness for the future.

Without sleeping much that night it was off to the airport and subsequently France. Lots of airport time full of delays and such and I was landing in Paris where I was to make connection with trip compatriots Justin Wood and Steve Maisch. That day we were able to sneak in a mini session on the famous circuits of Bas Cuvier in an effort to free of bodies from the kinesthetic restriction of airline travel. We climbed up to Font scale 7a did some stretching and it was off to the grocery store to start our new petite lives in France. I always love the interaction with day to day lives of other societies and a food distributor allows a perfect venue.

For our first week we were allowed marginal weather to which we utilized with great enthusiasm but the snow and rain did come in a big way. I will accompany some photos and this will just be the first of several posts. Enjoy.

Inclement Weather, The South & some Travel

2010-02-12T14:55:00.000-08:00

Bonjour seems the appropriate greeting as I am headed out to Fontainebleau the birthplace of Bouldering as we know it. Font is known for is super technical climbing and style and I am excited to see what I can learn and add to my own. It will be an excellent time and surrounded with good friends from Salt Lake City.

As for the south, it has been a little rough as far as the weather is concerned. SO the days in which we can get out has been minimized that being said I have made some missions to LRC to climb on whatever was dry which can be a fun and refreshing way/motivation to climb.

There was a ten day stint where I headed out to SLC in an effort to work and to make/maintain connections with friends of the outdoor world.

So hopefully there will be some climbing conducive weather before I head out to France on the 17th.

Hope everybody is braving the weather in a fashion that suits them. Best to all!

Little Rock City & Dayton

2010-01-08T19:21:00.000-08:00

Now that I am staying at a house the rest has been great especially considering that it has been frigid outside and climbing seems more like a survival sport. Matt and I went to LRC our first day and I was extremely impressed with the rock quality and the variety of holds was much greater than in Rocktown. Lrc actually was quite a crimpy area, at least in comparison to the rest of the south. It was very cold and I was psyched to keep moving after we had an amazing warmup with problems like the Wave and Genghis Khan both V5 and then moved on to the Cinderella boulder where Matt wanted to try the traverse which he did after a couple of goes. While we were at the boulder and Matt was resting I decided to try the 'Cinderlla V8?9?' and managed to flash it. This felt good as I usually dont try to do flash that much but when I topped out I almost vomited because how cold and painful the whole experience was. I was very psyched about this and then climbed another classic called 'The Pinch V7/8' in a couple tries. Afterwords Matt toured me around and lets just say I very psyched to return. At the end of our session I wanted to see the classic 'Super Mario V4' so we walked over and I flashed that and climbed the 'Red House V7' and that was a day, a great day.

The next day we went to Laurel Snow, which is a state park outside of Dayton, TN. It is much more spread out and of a different texture then what I have seen of the south thus far. It is home to the famed Dayton Roof(aka the roof as people seem to know it). This roof holds some of the most amazing and sculpted holds that are similar to the Warpath cave of Idaho's Castle Rock. I was very impressed with most of the climbs and I just tried to get comfortable with upside-down climbing. I flashed a V6 and then started to work on some other climbs in an extremely ADD fashion. After this brief session we checked out the excellent 'River Dance V9'. I came very close to doing this climb very fast but the park closed at sunset and we were not about to be locked in!! More to come.

Rocktown, GA and the exodus of The Red

2010-01-04T19:06:00.000-08:00

In December I was still in the Red and I found that sport-climbing and the winter time are not the best matches. Sport-climbing ends up just being to time consuming and when you only get to warm up and the try the route your psyched once and maybe a second time if your lucky then it just isn't enough climbing. I think sport climbing is better left for the longer days of summer when its too hot to grab the itsie bittsies on boulders. I held out until the very end with friends Matt, Lauren, and Keith until they all bounced back to the mountains of Colorado's Front Range. Then I hit the road despite the apocalyptic weather conditions and made my way south Chattanooga only to decide that Rocktown, GA was to be my first major stop. I met up with friends Brent Perkins and Jim Patton, both of which are RED fixtures. I was immediately impressed by the quality of the stone. The first hour I was telling everybody stranger and friend alike that this climbing is full of beautiful movement on exquisite stone.

I found that climbing short days at the end of the RED season had left my power at a low and I had some work to do...so I set out on a mission; climb, climb, climb.

After three days of climbing I was starting to feel back into it(read: my fingers were tuned up and felt springy again) and I climbed 'Brown Hole V8' & 'Paparrazi V8' both in a little session and after some work I was able to climb the mega classics 'The Orb V8' and 'The Vagina V8' & 'Sherman Photo Roof V7'. These climbs were my favorites but I also managed to climb many many quality problems and the only regret is that I would have loved to show up in the south in some kind of bouldering shape so I could see whether the 'Stout' or 'Sandbagged' grades of the south were accurate or what, but since I used the area to get back into some bouldering fitness I have no real idea. Either way the climbing is phenomenal.

It has gotten very cold in this neighborhood and I am now staying with a dear friend from my time in Rocklands, Matt Ballard. Life is good and it off to check out new boulders tomorrow at LRC. Got 'Em.

Flashback: Photos from Maple Canyon

2009-12-11T19:43:00.000-08:00

While I was getting to wrestle with some cobbles in Maple Canyon's Pipe Dream cave I was able to hangout with some very cool Austrians. One of them is a great photographer and great climber named Jakob Schrödel. Jakob took a couple shots of me sending the routes 'Squeal Like a Pig 5.13c' & 'Sprout 5.13a'. Enjoy and I will post more news from the Red River Success learning how to rest and better yet stick to the wall on 'Squeal like a Pig'
The steepnessGorge soon. Entering the cave angle on 'Sprout'

In the RED but seeing blue

2009-12-01T19:14:00.000-08:00

The beautiful Drive-By amphitheater and a crazy project going through the roof in the right is reportedly the equivalent of 4 Esperanza's in a row. 4xV14=WOWA
Inequity 5.12b
Lord SHIVA

I am still in the Red River Gorge, KY trying to work with the weather and get as much climbing in as possible. I am starting to get more comfortable on the rock here and find the sports climbing to be quite addictive. I was able to climb a really cool and powerful route called 'Shiva 5.13b' on my third try. The Shiva route is the motivation for this post title because Shiva is the deity of destruction and thus new beginnings in classic Hindu scripture and it is said that when people are under the influence of this spiritual figure their world is perceived through the color blue.

As long as the weather is somewhat cooperative than my dear friend Jason Grubbs and I will keep up our work here and when season eventually ends the migration to the boulders around Chattanooga will ensue.

Psssssssyched, JeaYeah Red River Gorge and the end of Joes

2009-11-22T10:56:00.001-08:00

Ander giving 'Kaleidoscope 5.13c' a first try
Kaleidoscope 5.13c
Ander Flashing 5.12
More 5.12 flashing
Yet more 5.12 flashing

I now know why people(ie Sports Climbers) use terms of extreme excitement such as the ones used in the title. It's because sport climbing is so much FUN and paces like the RED make it even better. When you set off to climb you get to climb so so so so much and what's the only thing better than climbing? More CLIMBING!!!!

The RED offers great stone at a ridiculous quantity on every angle. I have been enjoying the battle to try and get 'fitness', as no single moves seems to stop me. It is also interesting to climb here because my personal climbing style revolves around my love of movement and I usually opt for deliberate and static climbing but this place requires the exact opposite. 'Run & Gun' seems to be the term that embodies the experience here, I feel always in a state of 'grab & go' which is a blast to try and adopt new climbing styles and just keeps adding to the rolodex of climbing experiences.

I have just been on the mission of onsighting or flashing as many 5.12's as possible and hopefully I can embrace a phase two soon, in which I can try some more involved harder lines. But either way it is just so much fun.

My five days in Joes Valley prior to my long drive to Kentucky was also a blast. It was a very introspective climbing experience but also spent with great friends. I was able to climb great boulder such as 'God Send V10' in a quick session, 'Playmate of the Year V9', 'Raiden V8', 'Taking the Stairs V8' 'Water Painting V7'.

More to come as I am just liking this sandstone more and more...

Contemplation, Joes Valley & the release of stress

2009-10-26T14:31:00.000-07:00

The contemplative life seems to be the constant in my life and delivers me to interact with both reality and the absurd alike. As such taking an active agency in the world that I feel and experience is an important practice.

The last week(+) has had a great deal of stress and interesting situations. My dear friend Rocco and his great and now wife Mary had there wedding. This event came with many sides to it. It was my first wedding in a traditional sense and I was glad to have this first with a couple that actually meant something to me and thus avoided the 'going through the motions' vibe that an experience like this can conjure up.

By spending time in the city of SLC and away from the gypsy lifestyle different and intriguing experiences came about, which incited an interesting dimension to my own understanding of society and my interaction with the other beings that inhabit it. As such a few constants were understood. That being said I believe that the only constant is motion. This being said all we are in charge of is the interaction that we all personally have with our world and the 'other' is of concern but not control.

This is all to say that I have found myself in the sandy throws of central Utah and experience both boulders and myself in constant motion again and this appears to be where I am supposed to be, for now that is.

(+)the day after the wedding my friend and great photographer Craig Copelin and I got a tip on some new quartzite in central UT and we pursued and both established some nice new problems. Here are a few of Craig's iPhone pictures.

Photo Dump: Cont'd

2009-10-20T17:00:00.001-07:00

The pups and subsequent van ride to Joe's Valley for Rocco's bachelor party
Workin' a project

Photo Dump: Last Frontier and the Lower 48

2009-10-20T16:49:00.000-07:00

The following are pictures of the Alaska Range which houses some of the mos beautiful mountains including the giant, Denali.

Alaska & the Power of Mustaches(oh yeah and PUPPIES)

2009-10-13T13:16:00.000-07:00

The very dangerous Ruckus in Joe's Valley
An Amazing new v3 called 'Cattle Guard'
Rocco and Asha reinacting the Lion King
Joes Vizzle!!!
Rocco on his FA of the 'Crackin v5'

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Avoidance is perhaps one of the more perplexing yet interesting actions of the conscious rational human mind. We are intelligent enough to know that we can put off the inevitable but never release ourselves from the reality of our circumstantial lives. That being said in the last month plus I have been back home in Alaska for the first time in 2 whole years. There is more to the story than we need to go into now but the trip was a good one, full of work and the absorption the beauty that Alaska holds for me and the obvious beauty that exists in everybody's eyes.

I am now back in what Alaskans call the 'outside' which means the lower 48 states. I flew into Salt Lake City and have been getting into climbing shape again while spending good time with the SLC crew. The HQ for this little chapter is my good friend Rocco's house. Rocco and other good friend Mary are getting married and I have delayed my sport-climbing trip to the Red River Gorge a couple days in order to help them with pre-wedding goings-ons, plus to take part in the festivities in which climbers from both coasts will be converging for. I am also lucky enough to have the stars align so that my college roommates and bestest of buddies from Sweet Grass Productions premier their new ski film on Friday at Brewvies here in SLC.

As for the climbing I have been very very psyched but it was a little rough in the first day or so as I went Little Cottonwood Canyon(LCC) in the heat and only managed some moderate problems like 'Baldy v6'. I have total respect for the granite technical climbing and really love the movement that it creates.

Then it was off to Joe's Valley, a place I really love visiting but this trip was a quick 26 hours allowing for a couple short sessions. All the problems had to be done in a session and very quickly so we could keep seeing all the great new development, largely contributed by Rocco.

I climbed well but still felt a little shaky on my movements. I was able to ascend 'River Runs Through It v9', 'Blue Lambo v7ish', 'Cloak & the Dagger V6' a first ascent of 'In Vain v6' and a very exhausted 'Bow to the East v9'. It was a whirlwind kind of trip and an absolute blast to be rock-climbing again.

Last but not least the HQ has to new members, Ruckus & Asha, bothe six week old puppies. They have already been boulder hoping in Joe's and although they can/are a handful they're a wonderful addition to the crew.

Here are some pictures and I will post more very soon. All photos by friend Paul Nadler.

Learnin' to Crawl: Episode V: Squeal Like a Pig

2009-08-21T14:17:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I was able to spend yet another great day at the Pipe Dream Cave in Maple Canyon. I climbed a really cool route called 'Squeal Like a Pig 5.13c'. I am very psyched about this and all of the other great routes I have been able to climb. I am finding Sport Climbing to be a great and totally different challenge than the boulders and I am brimming with psyche to be discovering a great new facet to the sport I love so much. Psyched!!

A quick hit to Joes Valley

2009-08-19T16:15:00.000-07:00

My Girl-Friend Diesel. And she even dresses like me
'Worm Turns'

Right after sending 'Sprout 5.13?' I rallied over the mountains the seperate Maple Canyon from Joes Valley, two of Utah's climbing meccas, to meet up with friends Rocco, Mary, and Brandon. I was pretty tired and the grueling drive through the dark exhausted me further. In the morning we headed out and warmed up on a great block on the river and climbed an interesting problem called 'Kelly's Arete V5'. My sport climbing buddy Brent rolled up and we went to a great problem that has hiding in plain sight called 'Bring the Heatwohl V8' of the Eden sector. I climbed this block on my second try and was pleased because I was feeling tired. Rocco toured us around some other great blocks that he has been finding and establishing.

I was able to try 'Worm Turns V11' and came pretty close despite the extreme summer heat which was exciting. Although it was an exhausting day from the beginning it was a pleasure to pebble wrestle again.

Learnin' to Crawl: Episode IV-Cobble Tugging

2009-08-19T16:03:00.000-07:00

Portrait of Wal-MArt Parking Lot Life
A neato bug that was waiting for me when I giot back from the Pipe Dream
Since leaving SLC and before going back home in Alaska I have been exploring some more sport-climbing, this time in Maple Canyon, UT. It has a completely unique style due to the conglomerate nature of the rock. After two weeks in in SLC with no route climbing I have found that endurance can escape you quite quickly, but it return a little faster the second time.

After two days of retrieving my newly found endurance I was able to send 'Super Spunk 5.13a' and 'Sprout 5.13a/b?' quite quickly. I am having a blast with sport climbing. More to come.

Castle Rock'ed Cont'd

2009-07-31T15:44:00.001-07:00

The universal expression of 'its too darn hot'
One of the many cool crimp lines on the Green Wall
Lockin' it off through the pain
So Idaho
The teams reaction to the camping fee
Fee break down
The new Team Shoe in action
The namesake 'Out of Africa V10' hold

Castle Rock'ed: A series of mini Epics

2009-07-31T15:09:00.000-07:00

Rocco tryin' 'Jared Roof V11' which is an absolutely amazing problem of sculpted edges on a roof
More Jared's Roof
'Potato Famous'- 'nuff said
The G(ranite) Rydaz with dice and all!!
Diesel helping us pack up
On Wed my good friend Rocco and I went on a mission to Castle Rock, Idaho. The objective was to seek cooler temps than the 90+Degrees of Salt Lake City and enjoy some outdoor climbing. We brought Rocco's dog Diesel for some much needed outdoors action, to be honest I think Rocco and I needed the outdoors time just as much the pooch.

The plan was to re-con and climb a little during the day and then return for a night session. Upon our night arrival back in the famed Taco Cave, home of 'War Path V-Hard', the lighter was not in the lantern case. This was the arrival of Epic #1. After pondering as to whether climbing was even possible in the true darkness, we decided not and returned to the car to find a place to rest and return as the sun rose. Arrive Epic #2. The camping situation in Castle Rock is a pain to put it mildly. The only options are a twenty minute drive away in the City of Rocks and that camping run $21.20 a night!!!!What!!!! There is only one more option for camping, it is a not so signed area with no amenities for still $10 a night.

Arrive Epic #3. Upon waking in the morning we had realized that the stove regulator was not packed, which meant none of our food was available for eating...sigh. After a breakfast of dry oatmeal packets, some brownies that were in Rocco's truck and taco shells we were off to try some more rock scaling.

All in all we both topped out a few boulders and lost a tone of skin but it was a very high quality area. We just sampled the two classic boulders Taco Cave and Green Wall/Bag Piper Cave but I was very excited as the blend of Hueco-esque and Bishop-like climbing was great.

Tightening bolts with the bros

2009-07-28T22:30:00.000-07:00

Things have been radically different since my last post. The total diversity in experiences and realities that can be experienced from day to day is one of the great beauties of this world. That being said I have been twisting on bolts in the construction efforts of OR trade show booths until the late hours instead of touch and climbing real rock.

Once the booths were finished it was 4 days of seeing great friends and having meetings and spreading/sharing the psyche with people of the sport and overall outdoor industry.

Throughout the week I would duck out of the show to at least catch brief sessions in the local home gyms of the SLC area. On a side note it has been well over a week since I have had to start my car and biking everywhere has been a great minimization of my foot print, very psyched about this.

I seemed to not be able to get to sleep before 2a.m. throughout the show due to long conversations, basement sessions, and overall catch up with the bros. As friday(last day of OR) rolled around the exhaustion and relief could be read on everybody's face, but lucky Ander had the opportunity to work some more and break down some of these elaborate booths. I am very psyched because this short but extremely concentrated burst of work will fund my vagabond efforts for the duration of the summer, YES!!

I am now crashing with my good friends Rocco & Mary and tomorrow head out to check out the famed Taco Cave and other great boulders at the Castle Rock in Idaho. I am very psyched to see a new area and have already packed my camera so get ready for photos in my next update. Chau...

Learnin' to Crawl: Episode III: A series of mischievously pleasant events

2009-07-18T20:46:00.000-07:00

Since we last spoke I have been trying to sort out some of the near future and logistics and such. As financing has become a bit of an issue I have been hunting down some opportunities. I really lucked out and have landed so interesting construction/set-up labor in which I build the booths and structures for the up coming Outdoor Retailer here in SLC where I am writing this.

But all of this has come together haphazardly in that I did not receive the call confirming the job until I could get in the town of Rifle and I was not going to waste the gas to drive to town just to check voice-mail. So on thursday I climbing for what I thought would be my last day for a while and tried a great route at the end of the day and grunted a bit but found my self at the end moves and fell just short of the anchors and the final dyno, taking the 45 footer that skipping the last bolt(not recommended) provides. I bit surprised by this progress in just two efforts I was jubilant at the experience but had to wait until the next time I was would return to Rifle. So I cooled down in the dark and drove down to Rifle(town) and got the call, and got the job BUT as it turns out the job was actually for one day later.

So there I was with another gift of a day to do some rock-climbing but I had made the point to so thoroughly thrash myself that now I was afraid of subpar performance but was just psyched to climbing anyways. Friday was blazing hot and the climb that I was interested in was a late PM climb, because of when the sun hits it. So I played the game of climb in the morning and much of the day on other things and try to muster up some juice for when it was about to get dark again. As 7pm rolled around I was gonna try the route and re-warmup up on it. That is exactly what happened and I was feeling pretty tired and as a result, apprehensive. So I chilled and belayed a hommie as he flashed Movement of Fear 5.12c and then it was my turn. I tried real hard and just decided to believe, commit and enjoy. I sent and with all the excitment I could handle both with the possible sports action last move dyno over the now (potential)55footer. Psyched and surprised it came together, I sent 'Poetic Justice 13a' and now my drive through the night to SLC was to begin, after some din din of course. The drive started at 11:30pm and ended at 5:54AM. It was a great session of reflection, excitement and interesting ideas. Now I type with very little sleep seperating myself from Friday's climbing and the labor of today. So Good Night and have a great one!!

Learnin' to Crawl: Episode II-The fall and Rise of Psyche

2009-07-12T17:46:00.000-07:00

It has been unbearably hot up on the western slope and somehow this has actually translated into incredible amounts of rain always being coupled with said heat. I am find ing the process and of psyche and captivation with sectors, routes and crags to be so different than that of bouldering. For instance, I don't consider myself to be a selfish person beyond healthy standards but bouldering always an amazing amount of freedom in which to roam, grope, and infatuate one self with particular rocks but when route climbing especially solo you are trying to snag belays and visit or avoid entire sectors due to sun positioning. This is proving to be a lot to get used to and the solo nature of this leg of travel is just adding to the exhaustion in this learning curve.

So in the beginning of last week I had to bail in order to preserve some sanctity of mind and while doing this it had occurred to me that besides some bench time due to food-poisoning I had not taken a break in a little/long while so to explore the land of Glenwood Springs was the mission. I did some urban survivalism for a couple days and then wrangled an awesome house stay with a mate who is new to the area. I got ride my bike and explore a beautiful mountain town in the midst of all its summer music festivals and recharge the batteries and indulge in some indoor cooking accompanied with a refrigerator. The stress seemed to just subside.

It is funny that I seem to be learning a similar lesson again and again. When you are on the road with both the blessings and curses of such a life about every month of serious climbing warrants a break of about four days to truly regain the mind and body equilibrium that cam be distorted from health and happiness.

After this little break with no real idea of what comes next I was coaxed into returning Rifle, CO for some more sports climbing and was able to manage quick ascents of Movement of Fear 5.12c and Never Believe 5.12d and all with a smile on my face. So once again, 'lesson learned'.

Learnin' to Crawl. Episode I

2009-07-02T15:15:00.000-07:00

I have been in Rifle, CO for a little over two weeks now. I am on a quest to become a full blown Sports climber and put the bouldering on the shelf for a little while at least. The learning curve is steep which is exciting but there is much to learn and I am in a constant state of a beginner's mindset as to how this route game works.

I unfortunately had a major set back after the first week when I incurred the full wrath of food poising which sidelinned me to the back of my truck for a full week with a few exhausting days of easier pitches to stave off insanity.

But I am back on the straight and narrow(or very close) as my stomach is no longer trying to rip itself out of my body. I sent a 12.d second try yesterday and flashed 12.b and both without vomiting myself. Psyched. I am starting to feel progression and all I can do now is just keep keepin' at it, and let my knees do the climbing.

The Goin' ons

2009-05-29T12:05:00.001-07:00

The last couple of days I have been up to some pretty diverse and really fun stuff. The weather has been pretty sporadic here in Boulder so regularity with just about anything has been lost. I have done some sports climbing on the Primo Wall of Clear Creek Canyon and knocking off up to 5.12+ without getting to pumped. I went and climbed the Bastille in Eldo with my friend Matty that I am also living with and even led some gear pitches on that which was a total blast. I went to CATS(Colorado Athletic Training School) which is an awesome facility including really fun gymnastic equipment and had a great session in which I truly became psyched again. So much so that I am going back tonight. I am prepping the truck and I will be Rifle bound very soon.

Bishop Files

2009-05-18T17:01:00.000-07:00

A new V10 that Chris put up on the Checkerboard Boulder. Cool moves but quite sharp.
My view from my back porch. I love the eastern Sierra mountains
Carlo on the amazing and tall 'This Side of Paradise V10'
Again 'This Side of Paradise V10'
Alex making the big move on her ascent of 'A Maze of Death V12'

Yosemite Files

2009-05-17T17:00:00.000-07:00

Kevin tryin' the Classic 'Yabo Roof V11/12'
Chillin' in the Caf', the all to standard post climbing activity in the ditch. Of course staying until you get booted, which if you play it right can be midnight.

The very cool and quite unique feature of

'Pine Box V11/12?'
The perfect and well traveled granite of

'Cocaine Corner V5' in Camp 4.

Operation Saturation

2009-05-17T16:55:00.000-07:00

I have been up to alot of work and climbing as much as possible mostly in Boulder, CO. I have achieved some monetary goals and now own a great laptop and other quality of life improvements. It is about time for me to head out and live were the rocks are and the most recent manifestation of that will be Rifle, CO where I will try my hand at some Sports Climbing. Now that I have a station to process my photos and so on my posts will be much more saturated with media and adventures, hope you enjoy as much as I.
AR

Back from Retirement?

2009-04-26T14:01:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I actually went rock climbing again with old Friend Hayden Miller and Justin Jaeger in the Newlin Creek. The weather was quite bad and I would consider our conditions to humid as we were actually inside the clouds. But it was fairly quite and and nice excursion. As I spent a lot of time in Newlin last year it was quite the trip down memory lane and with old friends as well. I climbed a couple boulder within the V7 range and that felt noce to move over stone again.
Afterwords we posted up in Colorado Springs and the stars aligned that there was some electronic musique being played by friends that I had not seen in a while. Yesterday was full day of movement starting with an alpine start for Newlin and finally ending at 4 A.M. A Full experience.
I am now funded by my laboring exploits enough to buy a computational device know as a laptop and my posts will become much more frequent and highly saturated with media. A good one to you all.
AR

The 'End of the World' may be comming

2009-03-24T11:23:00.000-07:00

I am tellin all of you to watch out for the endo of dayz because I have officially jammed my hands, feet, fingers and body into Indian Creek sandstone. This is not a joke I even have some pictures to proove it.
I have been in quite an interesting stage of life recently and have been tryin' to ground myself in order to process a few things. I have been laboring in Boulder during the days and training inside at night but mostly I have been thinking and weighing all that life has shown me at this stage.
Perhaps our greatest refuge is spontinaity, this being said a dear friend of my offered a ride for a 'Creek' trip. So I thought to myself what an oppertunity for something new and no place offers a grounds for thinking like the desert...so here I am. I am distracted with the obsession with learning and afforded a great deal of though at night.
AR

Hopefully Life is like a Ninetendo...to fix all you need to do is blow on it

2009-03-07T11:40:00.000-08:00

The last month has been a particularly rough one. Several things have been contributing factors and going into them would be quite the unpleasent ordeal but no problem has ever existed without and ensuing solution. The quest is now to find that special way to blow on your Ninetendo that will keep it from freezing up.
Since May in '08 I have been on the road in less than comfortable livin' situations and to my odd surprise this takes a great deal out of you and the time has come for some regenration. The Front Range seems to be the host for this time and I will post when there is developments in my climbing related life.
AR

Outdoor Retailer and the American Contingency

2009-01-26T14:14:00.000-08:00

I am now in the Front Range of CO after hitching a ride up to CO from TX. I met up with some friends and carpooled out to SLC for the winter installment of the biannual Outdoor Retailer(Trade Show). This was my first experience at the trade show and I found my experience to be all over the board. It was very exciting at times, coma inducing at times but a very worthwhile and engaging experience with the world that I find myself in.
The highlights for me were truly the people and vision that some companies were rigidly pursuing despite the current economic state(aka-recession). The idea that a company can make an American product and continue to do so and that a constituency will value this was very good to see despite the obvious extra cost involved. This is the model that I created with A-Balm and to see that some people still emphasize quality and domestic commerce was inspiring. Especially in times of economic turmoil when every dollar counts it allows us to realize that 'WE' the consumer hold the power and with every dollar spent we vote on the future we want in our consumer and political reality.
Darn Tough really blew me away. Both of these companies make a product that is superior in quality to anything that I have ever seen all while keeping every facet of their production with in the united states.
Darn Tough is a sock company out of Vermont. Thats right they have stuck to just socks and it shows because I had never really considered this to be a necessary component to managing an adventurous and traveling based lifestyle but since I put my first pair on I am a believer and supporter. Despite the competition Darn Tough has maintained it entire operation including production line in the United States, their company is also full of personality and excitement as you can only find or deal with someone that has genuine psyche for their product the ethic that goes into it.
FiveTen has also acted with great environmental and performance emphasis with their Stealth Paint which is a recycled rubber program that that one can now apply to their shoes in a custom manner for improved toe hooking and other trixy foot work. The other exciting part of this program is that FiveTen has chosen not to patent this method in an effort to excite the rest of the climbing footwear industry to utilize there rubber waste for something productive.
Organic Boulder Mats has also continued to impress me with the commitment to quality and the ethic that has become inherent in their product name and line. I was fortunate enough to stop by the HQ in Laramie, WY, which is actually just a one car garage. Everything that comes out of this operation is all coming from this garage in the prairie. This is how the quality can remain so high on all items released. Don't be suckered in by the imitators who now slap bright colors on their pads, Organic is the original and the only company committed to unique individual items and soy foam which helps us escape yet another petroleum based product.
A-Balm also had a good showing at the OR in that we gained a few more accounts and received a great deal of praise, compliments, and suggestions from friends and strangers alike. Thank you all for the support with A-Balm and I hope that no one is a stranger as we appreciate all feedback and business. A-Balm has remained staunchly domestic in its production and demands that quality remain just as rigid.
Perhaps the best part of the entire experience was seeing great friends in the tribe from all over and even making some new ones. Thanks to good friend Justin Wood for all his hospitality and positivity. Ciau.AnderRockstad

Smiles and Boulder Problems-Past, Present, and Future

2009-01-21T08:53:00.000-08:00

So it has been quite some time, but not owning a computer will have that effect on ones blog. Since we last spoke I finished a great couple weeks in Bishop where I was able to experience such hospitality and if-ie conditions. But despite snow and ice dispersing itself amongst the beautiful boulders I was able to climb some amazing problems. 'Toxic Avenger V10' which at the time of send was actually half in ice which I think makes this the hardest mixed climb ever!!!, also in the table lands was the amazing 'Disco Diva V8' which felt plenty tough for me. Then to the ButterMilks to stake my claim on the ever evolving Cave Boulder. The holds involved in the Forgotten problem had recent significant breakage and where ripe for a new sequence, quasi FA and just some new territory in an old play ground. After pumping off the end a few time I was able to revive the radical 'Little Forgotten V10'. The topout was the first n the cave boulder in a few days because of the ice and snow, but due to raging motivation by my spotter(Friend; Walker) and myself i pulled myself over the snow and ice with my first hand jam ever!! What a boulder!!
Then it was ringing in the new year with my Austrian friends and to pick-up a climber in LA to start the 2009 with a drive on out the incredible Hueco Tanks of TX. After some serious driving time and a cargo drop in New Mexico we arrived in Hueco, actually the Rock Ranch to welcome of Bros from the past and current. In the morning it was hot but I was in my original geo-playground so psyche was brimming to say the least. I was able to fire off the 'Fern Roof V10?' with the original burl beta(Read: no kneebar) and this is a favorite climb of mine now. But Hueco was so unfamiliar in how physical it is from Yosemite and Bishop that I was forced into a rest day almost instantly after arriving. 'Smooth Move V8'(in my Daesents), 'Roughage V7R'(Best in Hueco?), 'Stanage on Holiday V8', 'No Wonder V7', 'Hector in a Blender V7', 'Dry Dock V7' and 'Something Different V8' are among my new favorites in Hueco. Wow, I feel like a total spray lord...maybe that fitting because iI have been in Hueco, lol.
Yesterday, I climbed a radical and obvious physical line in the Martini cave called 'Martini Hotbox V9' and then had to boogy to catcha ride to the front range which was delayed but eventual delivered me to Colorado Springs a 4A.M. And now I sit in friend Hayden's room which ironically I used to live in and will session at Eleven Mile today. More to come. Lots of Love.
AR

Playing Zen Flutes on the Moon in Bish-Town

2008-12-26T17:56:00.000-08:00

So I have now rolled back into Bishop with good friends Nic & Dom from the Inland Empire. We rolled up in the Five Ten van and upon arriving checked in with friends Jon and Mike to stay in town and enjoy the pleasure of space-heaters.
The next day you took a little whirl up my favorite warm-up ever, 'The Dome 5.8?'. Then I put my first efforts on 'The Mandala V12'. I found the moves to be much more managable than I had expected and see this as a reality. Truely an amazing boulder although incredible sharp. Then I went with some friend to the cave boulder and quikly dispatched the 'Moon Raker V9'in a couple goes. I found that problem to be super radical with amazing movement.
I heard dear some dear friends of mine South Africa were in the 'Milks as well and then set out looking for them. Then I met up Alana and Scott which of course was a total pleasure and trip all at once.
The next day Nic, Dom and myself headed back to the 'Milks. After a Warm-up solo on the dome I headed over to Dales Camp and was able to quikly finish an absolute incredible boulder 'Zen Flute V10' that finishes with an all points off dyno. So so sooooo good.
Some other nice boulders that I have climbed in the last couple of days are 'Disco Diva V8'& 'Get Carter V8' and in the icy super cold conditions of today I ripped of the last move of 'Toxic Avenger V10' with blood spraying from my right hand. It is very cold and staying psyched is easy but keeping the body in good shape is something else all together. So there is the whirlwind of recent activity and with Hueco on the horizon life is very cold but oh so good!!
AR

Bishop, avoiding the Apocalyptic storm & The Inland Empire

2008-12-18T11:22:00.000-08:00

If you are anywhere amongst the west coast of the united states you are aware that weather has been an issue if you like climbing rocks. Huge weather systems seem to be coming in from the Pacific. Bishop was no exception.
Prior to the storm we had a few small windows of climbable weather. I was able to make quick work of some great problems like 'Soul Slinger V9', 'Freeze Short V9' in two tries, and the 'Croft Problem V8'. I also tried an amazing problem, 'Zen Flute V10', that was originally put up by Sharma. This climb came so so close a to a one day ascent but because it is so amazing and classic I am just as psyched to head back.
I headed down to the Inland Empire with good friend Dominique in an effort to change the scene as the storm of impending doom was sitting on our doorstep, or tail-gate as it would be for me. I have been able to catch up with amazing people and great friends from the road. I have seen and will continue to check out the gym climbing scene as the weather seems to be unrelenting. I have been able to gain some accounts for A-Balm and stop by to meet the gang at Five Ten in Redlands.
It seems like true happiness in climbing on the road is more about the ability to adapt than to follow plans and this has been just another great chapter. Hope everyone has been able to adapt to the weather and stay psyched.
AR
PS-I have added a few images. The First is me sending "Pine Box V11/12". The Second is myself on 'Thriller V10'. The third is me sending an amazing V8 in Ibex that I was reminded of recently.

Bishop & the sheddin'

2008-12-04T18:04:00.000-08:00

So I have made it to Bishop but much more has happened as the title implies. I am still recoverying from some 'knock you on yo ass' bug that I picked up in the valley so hopefully I can put that on my shedded list soon. Turns out being sick messes with ones climbing...hmmm woulda guessed. Despite the heat that has been hitting Bishop I have managed a couple nice boulders. 'Brian's Project V9','Rave V7' and some rad patina V7. All went very quikley, within a few goes for all.
Before I left I shaved my head on very long hair in an attempt to draw a close to the past and begin this new leg as just that, new. I now reside in the bed of GMC truck and am hopefully awaiting some healthier times and cooler temps. Love to all. Ciau
AR

Pine Box

2008-11-12T15:43:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I made an ascent of an amazing steep and tall granite arete called 'Pine Box V11/12'. It had exfoliated a little bit as it is a new problem found and climbed by my friend Justin Alarcon. The lips on two of the holds had significantly decreased which made the climb much harder and forced different beta than the original condition dictated. The boulder also goes under the full value category as the top out is committing and sequence dependent. The grade is a bit of a question mark but I had an extremely fun time climbing on it and it is double digit-something. I will add some images of the ascent soon and hope you are all out there enjoying cool conditions.

On the Migration Station

2008-11-12T13:40:00.000-08:00

Lack of a computer has done a bit to stifle the update train but lets get it back on track. A bout of really nasty weather pretty much California as a whole and unlike the dry rockies and desert environments Yosemite Valley holds onto its moisture like a pit-bulls lock-jaw. So that meant training on a wet 45woody in the back yard. After sufficiently loosing my mind with not climbing I acquires a radical camera and proceeded to take shots of everything under the sun, which ended up being little because we were socked in with gloomy clouds for quite some time. And just when the world seemed to be getting smaller by the minute without any rock-scaling in the over a week my phone decided to snap in half, which of course exasperated the walls that were actually closing in!!

But alas the clouds broke long enough to allow some modicum of climbing conditions and I knew it was time to get back to the Valley, wet or not. I permanently left my dwellings in Fresno and waved goodbye to all that chapter held and didn't hold alike. A one way trip to the Valley, it was not planned and logistically its been a bit of an epic but the absolute right move to make.

Upon my drop off I met up with the Colorado Crew and and the vibe was on. So Psyched to be back into it. As a psyched climber it seems that the overlap with drug addicts is closer than some might like to acknowledge. Life was good and the vibes were excellent and the session productive. I tried 'Yabo Roof V11/12' and surprised myself and then came very close to the 'Yabo Face V11' in just a couple of goes and Chris Shulte snapped up the second ascent, good work. I am super psyched on getting back to this boulder and it stellar problems.

The next day reunion with Pete led to some classic climbing in cap four which was a blast including the historical rocks such as 'Cocaine Corner V5', 'Blue Suede Shoes V4', 'Initial Friction V1' ect, ect.

Then came the rain. This would be extremely news worthy except my lack of tent and appropriate sleeping bag prompted quite the search for overhanging(read; dry) ground to sleep. And for those that know about Yosemite granite this can be few and far between. After some very cold sleepless nights and equally rough rest days the conditions allowed climbing again. I climbed an amazing problem called, 'Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass V9' on the infamous Columbia Boulder. I sent very quickly which set good spirits for me and the fun just continued.

I think Bishop is next...

Note: The power of positivity and friendship in climbing has become more obvious than ever and it is the company we hold that makes the difference between a feeling of work and an explosion of excellence. Thanks to all the Bro's.

Yosemite and the Fresno New New

2008-10-18T22:50:00.000-07:00

Since we last spoke(by the way the most contrived method of opening a blog post) lots has happened. I have sorta moved into the starkly different Fresno, CA. Why, you might ask, this is certainly a great switch from your previous home, oh wait I did not have a home before this!! But in all seriousness my good friend Jacob lives in Fresno and as an active and staple developer of the Yosemite bouldering scene it seemed only appropriate that I take him up on his offer to crash and establish boulder problem in the famed 'Valley'. I have been down in this area for a week now and have already spent 4 days in the Valley, including today until a near tragic ankle sprain took my dear friend Catrina out of the game and sent us back to Fresno in hopes of speeding here rehab.

Although I feel like I am in total school learning the climbing style and technique required on not so steep granite I have managed to climb some stellar lines. 'The King V8', 'Silly Roof V7', 'Chocolate Bunny V6', 'The Diamond Left V6', 'Kudra V6' and flashing a nice V6(unnamed) in Camp 4 have been some highlights. It is taking alot but I am building that ever so important kinesthetic rolodex.

I arrived in Fresno via public train instead of gassing up a personal vehicle and since have been learning about electronics and their installation as part of my new 'tag along with Jacob' Job. Many hours have been spent carpooling back and forth to Yosemite Valley and these roads have now taken on quite the identity. They are no longer twisty winds up into the great sierras but an amalgam of provocative conversation leading to the ever expanding personal insight we all work so hard to gain. That is a whirlwind I know...but for now I wish all of you well and perhaps you will see me scouring the woods looking for boulders and wondering the streets lookin' for conversation. Just remember, "Not all who wonder are lost"

ARockstad

Hardly, Strictly...Love?Past?

2008-10-07T15:37:00.000-07:00

Since we last spoke the past has come into the periphery of life in the most interesting of ways. On Friday the weather seemed grim for rock-scaling in Northern California so I decided to bounce up to San Fransisco with friend Pete Finn. The method travel was hitch-hiking at it purest, from the door of my house to Golden Gate Park it was all thumbs up. Five rides and less than two hours(Must be because I shaved and they could see my beautiful face) we were watching amazing free music in GGP courtesy of 'Hardly, Strictly, Bluegrass'. The objective for the day was to see Robert Plant play with Alison Krauss and this was achieved in geat style in help by many a great person along the way. I was also fortunate enough to has a bit of a listen to Elvis Costello, Micky Hart, topped of Iron & Wine.
There was time spent with old friends, thinking about old friends, strolls along Haight(Where Caroline Hooked it up!!!Nepotism-What What) of course the beats of LoveFest. All of which brought the past to the present. Amazing.
I usually keep the blog to climbing but as a break this is what I have been up to besides training. And to right and wrongs here are some nostalgia climbing shots at college hangouts like the Spray Boulder and Hueco Tanks, TX. Thanks for all the support.
Martini Roof, Hueco Tanks, TX, Photo:Craig Copeland
V7+ in the Spray Cave, ElevenMile, CO, Photos:Hayden Miller

Yosemite Facelift 2008

2008-09-29T17:39:00.000-07:00

Still feelin' a little juiced from the long trip to Africa I was thinking more aout some local boulder reconnaissance but when I heard the Yosemite Facelift(note-an annual climber powered park wide clean-up) was going on starting on Wed and roling on through 'til Sunday I thought to myself why not? It was kind of a big trip from up here in wine country NorCal and called for several bus trips and an eventual meet up with a Craigs List ride from the bay area. After hours of interesting conversations with the local transportations proprietors I arrived in the majestic land known by many as 'The Valley'.
It was extremely hot(red-85degrees and up) everyday and I spent much of my time picking up trash and helping to organize the event which brought an amazing 50,000lbs of trash in from all over the park. I was psyched to be experiencing such an amazing part of climbing history from every angle and know I will spending a lot of time hear in the future.
I was psyched to climb and at least experience what all the talk was of Yosemite bouldering. I saw only a few of the areas, Camp 4, LeConte(KING AIR!!!), and the Cathedrals. As it was extremely hot I climbed at night when all were asleep and the event needed no more help for the day. The problems in Camp 4 move amazingly. Despite the heat I climbed 'Torque Spanner V8' and 'Ament Arete V6' very quikly after discovering there many tricks. I am psyched on a return to The Valley come some better temps and can now see the draw that pulls some people in and often never lets them go.

A family variety in NorCal

2008-09-21T21:02:00.000-07:00

Yours truly post Africa
A beautiful beach session
The rightmost line, a classic
Me sending an amazing V6, name unknown
Today I headed out with my mom to hunt down some blocks here in Northern California. We were to meet up with friend and psyched climber Richie to get a little tour but there was a communication break down and it looked bleak for a minute. But not to worry, Richie hooked me up ith another psyched local, Ryan. Ryan has put a bunch of great work into developing these great boulders on the coast and beyond. Needless to say it is super rad to keep connecting with all these great psyched people and insta friends.
First stop was the Fort Ross Boulder. I was quite taken by climbing on the beach and as my friend Hayden can testify it is 'very powerful'. This boulder stands as a crown the joins the land with the Pacific Ocean. The tide was rising the whole day and was for sure giving the boulder some spray. The rock-type was a sandstone conglomerate and had very good friction. I was able to climb a proud and stout V6 but more importantly it felt good to move the body on stone again.
Next stop was to get a preview of some amazing blue schist crimping just inland. I am very psyched on spending time there in the near future and I also ended the day flashing a very nice and striking prow, 'Walk The Plank V6'. It was a god excursion. Friends were made, beaches were frolicked, crimps were had and boulders were climbed. Psyched.

Sweet Boulder, CA

2008-09-20T17:35:00.000-07:00

A traversy line that Richie put up called "Astro Zombie V8'
The crimpy type of climbing suplied by schist

Today I went out to break my mold of comas, jetlag, and internet sleuthing. I am trying to get recovered from such a long session of rugged, cheap, and amenity devoid lifestyle. But Today I went to go and check out some boulder that a rad friend, Richie, had discovered. The rock type was a metamorphosed schist which made for some extremely crimpy and sharp climbing. I temps were hot and I cut my pads up pretty god but it was good to go on a mini-excursion in comparison and I at least got move my body over some stone. What I am really psyched for is tommarrow in which Richie will give a tour of the real biz. Stay tuned and here are some pics.

Africa Files 19- Thank You

2008-09-17T09:14:00.000-07:00

The trip is now over and upon just preliminary reflection it was the raddest trip!!!!Super good in so many ways. I have so many thankyouzzzzz to be dropping to so many people that made my trip a success either through contact or just sharing moments together. I received amazing support from my dear friend Thys, whom owns and operates the Depakhuys Farm. For those looking for logistics upon Rocklands bouldering and organizing a trip you should feel free to leave a comment on my blog and I will get back to you and also give a good look at http://www.Depakhuys.com/ for pictures and a way to contact Thys. Depakhuys has an amazing campground with hit water and showers for the equivalent of US$5 a night with a lesser rate for longer stays, definatley the best deal in the Cederberg. There re also chalets for the indoors inclined sleepers that are quite nice. And most importantly there are some the most amazing boulders and bouldering sectors on the Depakhuys Farm including the famous Fields of Joy and Plateau Sectors. It is truely an amazing farm and one that I will call home again.
I would just like to say thank you to all of you that helped make this trip happen including you blog readers!!It was an amazing trip and your hosbitality and openess of the greatest bouldering areana I have ever seen is so appreciated...thank you.

Africa Files 18- The Wrap-Up

2008-09-17T08:31:00.000-07:00

The last week in Rocklands proved to be troublesome with the weather but an amazing time full of things, not just climbing. The weather was sporadic at best with rain and Antarctic storms rolling through. I worked on a project with my friend Eric Klimt(CC Graduate). It was a movie about the industry of that climbing is growing into for the Cederberg region(read;Rocklands). It was full of interviews with climbers and landowners with the intent of educating and explaining the opportunities and future that climbing can bring to them. It was extremely well received when you showed it at a farmer gathering. I think that this is an important step in the progress and insurance in the climbing future of the Cederberg and felt great to be a part of that.
As for climbing I tried and sent some of the best problems of the trip. I went out on raining day with my buddy Pete and his newly arrived girl friend to finally try the beautiful 'Gliding THrough Waves Like Dolphins V11' I was a little bummed that I had not tried it until the very end of trip because it went extremely well. I flashed through a great deal of the problem and then ADD rampaged the rest of problem for two hours until it was fairly clear what my method would be. The increasing wetness eventually caused me leave but very psyched to return on a further trip.
I got in some good sessions at the Field of Joy sector on Depakhuys Farm that were for the most part dry. I was able to climb in the excellent Dirty Lies Cave for obvious dryness issues. I climbed 'Dirty Lies Right Exit V9' on my second go and the full line of 'Dirty Lies Extension V8/9?', it is hard for me t grade these ones because long climbing and links are not my forte and I don't have that much experience there but they were rad and quite obvious addition to current cave lines. I began giving 'No Late Tenders V11' send burns but I tweaked my shoulder and resigned that one to the next trip list. I also climbing this really rad gritty line 'Panic Room V7' that Klem put up some time ago. It was originally done with a fairly indirect finish that reahed the lip and then began traversing out around the corner on jugs but seamed fairly inobvious to me so and the crew set out to straighten it up and to finish it up with one of the only desperate topouts in all of Rocklands, for sure a great line now.
I was also fortunate to return to the Sassies Sector for one last day on thee great problems, but there is a catch. The catch was it happened to be a 90+Degree(F) day which is just another sign on the Cederberg season ending. This temperature offered an unexpected gift but we will get t that later. I climbed this super classic rad line 'Petite Hueco V8' which is made famous in Chuck's film Specimen. It was yet another very long boulder problems and extremely poor conditions so it felt like quite the accomplishment. I also tried this amazing problem called 'Paula Abdul V11' and made rad progress considering that I was only falling on one move but the rest were on lock down so it is another line to returned to, psyched for next season.

Africa Files-Part 17-Okay, back to climbing!!

2008-09-05T06:46:00.000-07:00

Since we last spoke the Rocklands and thus myself experienced a hurricane like storm consisting of gale force wind up to 90km/ph which essentially decimated the campsite I have been running(aka massive clean up). Needless to say the internet has been down in the entire Cederberg region for a while, but were back.
On a personnal note I have been starting to return in strength, ability, and overall psyched after my health epic. My gas tank still feels very small and I get tired very quickly but I have been able to climb at a nice level again. On the last day of the storm I had the privelege of watch Dosage 5, and must say that I am super psyched with this end product from the prolific climbing film maker Josh Lowell, a Colorado College grad no less. This came at an excellent time because the next day was wet but climbable and I went out for a session in which to my surprise I climbed 'Human Energy V8' and 'Human Energy Direct V7' both on my second go. I was way psyched to be able to move my body again after so much downtime. The next day I tried climbing again I climbed a bunch of beautiful climbs, such as 'Esoterrorist V6' second go. At the end of day I headed to the classic Poison Dwarf boulder to try the direct to a line that I had already done 'Poison Dwarf V8'. The direct was originally graded V11 or 8A but to me seemed to be the true line on the boulder that combines all the best moves. So I set to work on the additional three crux moves to the direct and eventually got them. Then I decided to get a link of the upper moves and I pulled that off, psyched into the progress of that alone I knew the whole boulder was a possibility but it was getting dark and I had not eaten in hours and skin was low. My friend Eric Klimt had lent me his iPod as a climbing partner for the day and MIA seemed a comical and psyche filled option to be listening to as I contemplated the whole boulder. Alright, time for the 'try hard' attempt but a beta fumble caused an early departure from the rock. So there I sat completely psyched and almost in the darkness alone trying to muster a send that would mean a bunch after my hospitalization. I told myself if this goes well I will take a rest on the next day. Paper Planes the MIA song came on and I thought it appropriate to make my attempt on 'Poison Dwarf Direct V9?'. Totally psyched I pulled through all the moves with great execution an then I was topping out, SO PSYCHED. It felt so great to be back and part of rock-climbing again. So as I promised myself I took the next day off and it was a good thing because I was gassed.
The next climbing day I tried this rad problem called 'Throw Yourself Away V11' as I supported my friend Matt Ballard on an amazing problem 'Born Into Struggle V9' that I had done before my incident. Matt is a centimeter away from sending and I am sure the next we go up he will dispatch. I was also surprise because I just have to do one more move on 'Throw Yourself Away V11' and then it could go. After this session Matt and I headed to another cave because of the heat in an effort to stay away from the sun and to try a problem called 'Louder Than Bombs V9'. We had a great session and at the end I pulled out a one day ascent that I am really happy with. So now it is another day of because as I mention earlier my stamina is minimal but I am psyched. I am climbing well and I feel nowhere near my top shape yet, so I am extremey psyched!!On climbing and the direction I am on. AR

Africa Files-Part 16-Pics

2008-08-30T00:52:00.001-07:00

Just another bry fire as per usual around deez parts
My dirty nature upon hospital admittance, notice the banana
My new threads for some english patient time, Thanks Matt
Pete on 'Creaking Heights V4'
Danny a great and myself chillin', prone to mischief

Africa Files- Part 15-The Return

2008-08-29T18:07:00.000-07:00

So at the beginning of the week I returned back to this home I have carved out in the Cederberg mountains. It was great to see the friendly faces of climbers and such that I have really bonded with already.
It has been an interesting mix of gratefulness and disheartening, because I am able to rock-climb again but my body took quite the knock with this whole ordeal and the reality is my physical state shows this. Like I said not a bummer but just an interesting dichotomy. That being said I have made it to the top of some things. I did 'Dirty Lies V8' in a few minutes after falling on the top out during the flash. I worked 'Nutsa V12', it sounds really hard but with the quikness that I did 'Sunset Arete V9' it is surprisingly close feeling. At the end of the day I feel ripped up and soar though which is quite the new feeling. Hopefully this is all for the best and I have some more great rock-scaling ahead of me.
I have done some internet sleuthing in my down time and must say that it is good hear about all the psyche and good climbing happening in CO and hope that it continues. I will also put in some great shots that my friend Matt took of my first day back so stay tuned and most importantly stay psyched. AR

Africa Files- Part 14-The Rest/Rehab

2008-08-23T03:10:00.000-07:00

Atop the beautufl Table Mountain
Looking down a Table Mountain gully into CPT
A Lizard I chilled with atop the mountain, these guys aren't affraid of no ghosts
The bluffs of the twelve appostles into the Atlantic side

Since the last post I have been resting at my dear friends Carol and Stu's house in Cape Town. It has been really excellent to drop off of the radar(my own included) and just recover from 'that epic'. I have been sleeping alot and consuming great amounts of food in an effortto regain myself. It seems to have worked as well and I am feeling mostly myself again. With almost a week of rest under my belt I have made two quike little adventures, one up to the top of Table Mountain in CPT and the second to Fish Hoek Beach. I am including some pictures of Table Mountain so one can see how beautiful this Cape Town landmark is. On Sunday I head back to Rocklands with renewed psyche, so lets see what happens-AR

Africa Files-Part13.5-The Epic(cont'd)

2008-08-19T00:35:00.000-07:00

Now that the sponge bath was finished it was time to return to my nice old rusty bed. I spent the rest of the day watching my arm to see if the streaks that were heading up my bicep were indeed to stop with the anti-bodies now in my system or to continue to a much more serious state. Eventually the nurse came in a turned on a TV and low and behold possibly the greatest movie of time was playing, Beverley Hills Ninja. So there I lay as an African English Patient and watch Chris Farley, what a life.
Next thing I know I am being woken with great speed as though something is the matter but I soon found that they just don't believe in bed rest and they felt compelled to wake me up pumping a higher dose of anti-bodies into my arm which are very cold compared to the bodies temperature of 98.6DegreesF. The new fluid to my body burns through your vein structure. The sun rose and the day began to pass but the nurses had not come back in to washthe wound as they said and I just took matters into my own hands, literally. I cleaned the wound and then resumed my horizontal life on the bed.
In the late afternoon my friends Greg and Magda came in to the room to check on me and upon my explaination of the stay thus far we all concluded that I should bounce to Cape Town with them. Magda throwing down the local Africaans tongue like a champ and Greg setting up a crash pad bed in the back of his truck I made my exit. Three hours in the back of there truck(bucky) and we were in Sumerset West a town outside of CPT. In the morning Greg drove me a house in the south of CPT were I now reside with my friends and great people Carol and Stuart. After all of this I am quite ready for a break from the mountains and am in need of gettingthis infection squashed. So for now it is avocado sandwhiches in the beautiful botanical back yard Carol and Stu, a welcomed break. AR

Africa Files-Part 13-A series of Unfortunate Events

2008-08-18T02:55:00.000-07:00

Hello to al my friend in blog land. I have some less than good news to report, it involves borrwed cars, lots of speeding, needles, hospitals, scalpals, overweight nurses and the subsequent spunge bath, hours in the back of trucks and eventually and delicous avocado on toast.
So it began with a morning and beautiful morning at that. Upon waking I noticed a small red dot on my arm. Thinking nothing of it I relished in my newfound comfort of a shower at the campground. Went boulding as per-usual and felt very strong despite all day I never really accomplished much as I could not generate full power from my left hand. A little bit bummed by the seemingly unbalanced day of feeling realy strong but accomplishing little I retired to camp and jolined everybody to the bar that night as it was a friday and people were looking to get out of the mountains. I got to unleash my dance-bone and lets just say that Africa may not have been ready for a mix of me and euro-trash techno but they certainly jumped aboard quikly. BUt I had to crash pretty early because everything was just feelinga bit off. In the morning I woke and the light through my tent cast everything a red color so indeed my arm showed red but when I vacated the tent my arm was red for reasons independent of the light. There had been an incredible amount of swelling and I knew that something was going down in a bad way. I asked when people were heading into town and with no definate answers being given I convinced Danny a British climber to let me take his car in and grab him food/get me to the doc on the asap. I took his Daihaitsu to unpresedented speeds of the pass and later dirt roads. In other words I made a 30 trip in 14 minutes. Picked up my friend Matt in town and left him the car and booked it to the doctor. While explaining the urgency to the receptionist the doctor walked in and upon a first glance said that I would be heading to the hospital but as he is the only doctor for the hospital as well it was going to be a while until he could get around to helping me(ie-The Tri-Nations Rugby match was about to come on). Being a persistent young fellow that I am I convinced him to at least start the treatment in his office. The treatment turned out to be the doctor cutting my arm open on his desk with no anesthetic(Speachless Pain) and venomous ooze began to pour from my arm.
Okay, so now I though it is time to get to the hospital but when I stepped outside I couold not find Matt or the car so I bouced the Police Station and requested an immediate ride. So there I am now again in a cop truck in AFrica except this time flying through traffic with a hole in my arm. I got admitted and when they saw that underneath all of my dirtyness I was white they asked whether I would be paying or had a health card? I said health acrd and I was taken to a seperate wing of the hospital. I git an IV plugged in with antibodies and there I was upon another adventure. NOw it was just a waiting game to find out if we could reverse the blood poisoning and I just lay there watching my arm to see whether the streaks were indeed continuing up my arm or where now receading. The nurse seemed to be quite sure that all of this trauma was happening because I wore sandals and climbed rocks and have a mono dread and as a result she was insistent that I change cloths but only after being scrubbed by her. She made my homie Matt get me some new threads at the store(thanks Matt) and it was off to a spong bath.Sparing the detalis it was a humorous occasion.

Africa Files-Part 13-A Series of unfortunate events

2008-08-18T02:16:00.000-07:00

Africa Files- Part 11-The Fresh and the New New

2008-08-14T02:48:00.000-07:00

Africa, how great and new she can feel when you just move out of an abandoned old crack house and back into your tent in the company of great new homies. I have been changing it all up, I have been doing manual labor(ie-building shit yo) and showering(go-figure). But even more so I feel way psyched to go rock climbing in a new spot on new problems and just feel anew. It was very hot the other day(80F) but I was still able to put good effort in and make quick work of 'Born into Struggle V9' and 'Poison Dwarf V8'. Then I went sport climbing to really mix things up and really almost flashed 5.12? and ended up doing it second go and it felt real nice to do things completely different. Spice, spice the spice of life. Love to all and enjoy the pictures.
AR

2008-08-12T06:52:00.000-07:00

Is that a bouldering brush in my pants or am I just happy to have sent?

Demi Lune V4. Super classic. Unfortunately my gangle bone covers up most of the problem in the picture.

Now see here, dames. we call this one Ulam. He's not to be trusted. Small crimps, big moves, he's shifty, see? Sometimes I talk like this, copper, and there is nothing you can do about it. (in 1920s gangster voice)

2008-08-12T06:32:00.000-07:00

Sicky problem at Riverside. The name is Au pie delans leau or something equally French.

Cedar Spine, baby!

The top out looked too easy so I dyno'd the motha'. What the picture doesn't show is my spotter running for cover.

Africa Files-Part 10-My Ho is gone and the Move

2008-08-12T01:02:00.000-07:00

Hello everybody out there in blog-land. A few major things have changed since we last spoke. First of all Zaych left, but not without making his project go down in quike form, 'NBA Jamz V8'. It was such a rad adventure and absolutley crucial to have a master of travel to accompany me for this voyage of Africa proportions. Lets all wish Zaych the luck on his ways to becoming a doctor of astro physics, see you soon doc.
Last night I relocated to De Pakhuys, which is essentially a wonderland of climbing camps. It already has been a blast with big communal dinners and a bunch of great people from all over the world expollsions and all. Much more to come and many pictures as I am able to use the internet here. Alsi I did 'Minkki V8' in super quike form and is just another unbelievable rad line.
AR

Africa Files-Part 10-Some Epics

2008-08-04T04:25:00.000-07:00

Today Zaych and decided that is was indeed in our favor to have a second rest day and heal up the body and the skin. This proved to be exceptionally important as Zaych had been crimping like a machine these last couple of weeks. This resulted in a some internal tears of the tissue and an infection to spring up. As one can imagine this is a mega bummer for a climbing trip to have your ring finger pad out of commission and in immense pain. But like the team we have become we decided it was time to stop at a South African doctor and get that mother taken care of. An hour from that decision we had already hitched a ride into the town visited a doctor and Zaych received a giant needle to the finger and manually drained it! The specifics are confidential but lets just say that Zaych earned some mega gnar points(reference previous posts). The plan is to get one more boulder problem finished, 'White Mazda Clan V10', before leaving our little crack-house and joining the masses at Depaukey's. Media to come I assure you-AR

Africa Files-Part 9-The Life(an update)

2008-07-31T04:52:00.000-07:00

Just an update on the goings ons of my trip. All is well and Zaych and myself are feeling healthy and psyched. I did an amazing line yesterday called 'Black Spider V9' which felt very hard for because of its length and word has it that it harder 5.13, who knows? But it was a great line and a great time. The weather has been really ADD from hour to hour and day to day so our psyched nature is really working well. To all you who wants some media, I have been harvesting it. But idle threats will do you no good. You must use a carrot with this horsie. Like I said just a little update but to end I will add some facts of life as I have found them.

Facts;-Rock-Scaling seams to just not lose its fun for me and I am perpetually psyched, even a surprise for me sometime.
-I feel better about the world knowing Jaeger is out there finding new boulders and using his gnar beam on all geology/friends/and authorities alike
-The Rocklands are truly staggering and yes my knees have buckled
-PB&Jays are a 10 out of 10

Psyched and with love-Ander

Africa Files-Part 8-The Best Boulder Problem Ever?

2008-07-29T04:00:00.000-07:00

Alright, here is the deal, I think some are prompt to exaggerate when it comes to preaching about how classic a boulder really is. And perhaps I am now joining those ranks. But I found the 'Cedar Spine SDS V9' to be what I would consider truly 5 Stars. I had only a few minutes with this beast two weeks ago and was only able to try the stand start. This problem takes many pads and since I seam to be lacking in the quantity but not the quality(Thank you Josh-ORGANIC_WHAT WHAT) I was at the whim of the crowd. So I did this great problem in stand start form in about three goes but knew the full beauty was yet to come. Yesterday I found people at this problem and got a few minutes to suss beta for the SDS. I gave her a link and fell at the last move(big air-fun/scary), then everybody decided they were ready to move on. Bummer!! It seemed as though yet again I had caught a tail end of a session and chalked it up to a typical saying, "Sometimes that's the way the cookie crumbles". Zaych and I tried a few more problem and at the end of the day I gave some nice Italians some beta and informed them that they perhaps had left a chalk bag over by that great problem. As luck/fate would have it one of the Italians wanted to see the spine and as the sun was setting I was able to assemble the minimum pad quota. So I gate it a go to warm up and fell at the last and very high move again. Then the Italians were talking about leaving as it was actually getting quite dark. The Italian told me we both had more go. He had a nice go from the stand and this really left me with some business. At the mercy of the pad situation yet again I just decided to enjoy this great and try really really hard as it was actually dark at this point(no head-lamp). I floated through the bottom and just took a second to breath and enjoy the climbing at about the half way point. Finally the last move came and I just decided to lock-off and put a little hop to my step for the final latch and the super man air that was to come. An ascent that really meant something for me and great realization. A truly beautiful climb and a beautiful moment!! So Pysched.

Some thoughts from a great man

2008-07-23T05:52:00.000-07:00

Ben Rubin has sent us(Zaych & myself) some great vibes thius whole trip and helped us with some stateside communication which we appreciated a bunch. His latest installment has been profound, check it out.

"I'm glad to hear that all is going well. Keep on sending plenty of
gnar. I was once told by and elderly gentleman that gnar does not
necessarily come in the form climbing. Rather, he said, that gnar
points come from doing simple acts in an extreme manner. So, going to
the store...on roller skates would equate to about +3 gnar. Rock
climbing 5.10+ would be about +9 gnar points. I mean it just depends.
Like today, I'm going to work but I as well will be "sending the
gnar" by throwing trays to the customers (+1 gnar).

Gnar is the SI unit of extremeness and awesomeness. 1 Gnar (gR) is
measured as the Mass of the doer divided by the mass of the recipient
object plus 3 kilajoules. This is then taken to the power of 7
divided by the gravitational field of the mass of the object. The
equation looks someting like:

((M1/M2) + 3kJ)^(7/Grav Field M2)

I think if you use this equation, you'll find that most everyday
activites have some sort of gnar level. However, most gnar
calculators these days round too much such that most everyday
activities do not read on the gnarometer.

I guess Time magazine or some publication had a small article about
the gnar-liest man out there. Apparently, Elvis has taken the cake
for the past 20 years. It seems that all the publicity he still gets
and all the impersonators contribute greatly to his gnar factor
(f(gR)).

Who woulda thunk?

-Ben"
Zaych and myself have been activating our much needed rest bones. -Ander

Africa Files-Part 7- The Media

2008-07-18T04:41:00.000-07:00

Africa Files- Part 6-The Actual Climbing

2008-07-18T04:17:00.000-07:00

Zack and I have really started to get into good groove and the great weather has allowed for the climbing on all the days we feel it. I have been feelin' great and climbing at least a V8 or harder everyday. Zaych has been climbing his best and now sent a 'A Question of Balance V8', which I sent as well and we both decided that this may be the greatest problem yet. After a rest day we went to the famous Roadside boulders and had on of the best and most tiring days ever. I started by onsighting a classic highball 'Creaking Hights V5' and then quickly dispatched with 'A Question of Balance V8' and 'Sunset Arete V9' with were both absolutely excellent and a real dream come true. We took our mandatory PB&J break and ran around to see all of the beautiful boulders. I decided to try one more problem and warmed back up. Within a few minutes I did another great V8 which just capped off a beautiful day.
The next day(yesturday) Zaych and myself got picked up by the great and welcoming Amy & Jon and went back to the Roadside for the morning. Feelin' really tired and low on skin the V6's took a couple of goes. I eventually got warm and started to work on a great dynamic problem 'A Pinch of Herbs V10ish'. I got really really close for the quick ascent but will just have to enjoy this line another day. Psyched. We then walked up to the Roadcrew boulders where Amy and Jon had some people to meet. Feelin' super low on skin and energy I had to chill for a few minutes but then could not help but get psyched on this line of a problem called 'Rooi Klavier V9'. It took some real deep efforts and a few breaks but I was able to send it and in real good form. I talked to Andy Mann over at 'Amandala V15' and it sounds like him and his crew have been having a blast. Got to experience Paul Robinson sending this amazing line in good one day style, amazing. Daniel Woods seemed really close and I am sure will get it as well.
I have a better internet connection and will try to post some media. But having the time of my life and I send my best to all you greats out there. SO SO PSYCHED...

Africa Files Part 5-The Rain/Climbing

2008-07-15T07:20:00.000-07:00

There could not be a better match of people than Zaych and myself as the time spent in that small room amongst the humidity was a blast in its own not climbing way. Finally I snapped and with some beta from a local I found a traverse that does not top out that stays dry. The rock was dry but I was not and I brough and extra set of clothes. After changing I warmed-up by trying to flash the trav and after three goes I dispatched the first bould problem of the trip, 'The Egg Files V8'. Game on!!
Over the last couple of days Zaych and I have beem climbing and sending with great speed. More and more to come. For a full list of sends before the next entry check out my 8a.nu link. Lots of Love to these great universe & SOPSYCHED!!

Africa Files Part 4-The Rain

2008-07-15T07:15:00.000-07:00

As fate would reveal we showed up in the Rocklands at the wettest rainy spell in which the flooding was unbelievable. A long story turned short we arranged with the farmer whom owns this property to inhabit/clean up his crack house that was in total diseray. Zaych and myself quikly made it quite the home. Pictures are included. We sat out some 5plus days of unbelievable torture rain.

Africa Files Part 3-Getting to the Rocklands

2008-07-15T07:09:00.000-07:00

One step closer and now in Capetown Zaych and myself investigated bus routes to Clanwilliam because we were detered from hitch-hicking(weather and safety). We got on a bus and within six hours were dropped off in the middle of the night along route 7, miles from Clanwilliam still. WE put on some thinking caps found a payphone and called the police, yes the police and they agreed to pick us up and bring us to Clanwilliam. Yet one step closer to rock. Once in CW we convinced the police to drive us into the mountains and drop us off at the abandoned campground but not before making several rounds through the town in an effort to control the drunken saturday night herds. We eventualy got dropped off at the campground in the pouring rain.

Africa Files Part 2 Cape Town

2008-07-15T07:03:00.000-07:00

Once I arrived in Capetown I got the exciting oppertunity to wait 12hrs for Zack. All the while hoping that any of the ride prospects could work out. It turns out none of them did and I finally got some much needed sleep on my old friend the crash pad. Then the man himself (Zaych Money) came and it was full swing for the good vibes and the laughs that hurt your face. We stormed up some ideas as to how we were going to get to the rocklands. We played a bunch of shirtless hachy sack, the janitors thought it was funny to say the least. Long story short we arranged for a friend of a friends ex-boyfriend's mother to save us from the lights and persistent music of the airport.

African Files Part 1

2008-07-15T06:56:00.000-07:00

Alright here is the deal, Africa is blowing my mind and we(Zack Rubin) have been pushing our adventure to the fullest. I am going to break it dfown the best I can. The first step was the adventure of the airports. I spent 70plus hours in airports. Canada and England were the main stops. Meet some great people along the way. Pulled change out of theseets in London's airport to us some internet and tryto establish who if any one was to indeed retrieve Zack and myself from the airport in Capetown. I sat next to great artist on my final leg to Africa and just talked through my concepts and experiences. I watch 10 movies in total and have seen enough romantic comedies at this point to make any relationship work.

The Washington Wrap-Up

2008-06-29T20:14:00.000-07:00

My time in Washington is coming to an end. It has been great and not at all what I was planning or expecting. I would like to send the biggest of thank you's to all that have made this a rad little adventure. The hospitality of the Zimmerman's, Bret, and the Miller's made it all possible for sure. Also thank you to the new friends acquired on the road, Mr. Joe(whom climbs and saves the trees!!), Dale & Amy of Leavenworth(CC Grads) and all the rest. Less than 48hours I am bound for AFRICA!! SO Psyched.

My time in Leavenworth ended up being extremely hot and I found it hard to take any rest. I did some more rad problems and work some of the best lines out there. Bret came and picked me up on Sat and of course it was hot(100Degrees), the whopping triple digits. Needless this made it hard too finish off a few double digits problems. I gave 'The Coffee Cup V10' a few more whirls in the heat and made a bunch of progress, I though it might go but the ouzzzzze from my tips prevailed. Bret found the same symptoms on a rad extension of dangle V10ish as well. So we bailed to Index to try 'Hagakure V12ish'. After some great burns on that we bailed once again to the river boulders. We had a blast cooling off in the river and climbing a bunch of V-moderates over the water. Then we scrubbed down a boulder for what would surely be the first ascents of the season. We did this really cool problem 'Whore Hole V8ish' named for one of the vicious holds you must sink your meet hooks on.

Today Bret and I headed back out to Index. It was even hotter than Sat. We both went to hang with the Five Ten guys and try and climb as much as we could. We climb the river boulders circuit again and again and watched some rafters get flipped in the white-water. Tomorrow it is back to CA and to prep for South Africa.

Leavenworth Con't

2008-06-27T16:47:00.001-07:00

Alright here is the deal gang. The summer is super hot in Leavenworth, I am talking 100Degrees-F. Basically I wake up on the crash pads melting and start the day with an all to normal(at this point)amond butter covered blueberry bagel. Then I hit the river which is actually near freezing still. Then it is time to make a pilgramage to where ever the universe desiced to take me via hitch hicking(usually end up in town) and then return for some possible cool night time temps. Today I got picked up by a rad guy nammed Dale and through a bit of conversation we found that him and his wife graduated from Colorado College the year I was born(crazy), so I helped them move for much of the day and it sounds like we will chase some better temps latter tonight.
Despite the heat I have done some rad problems and worked on some mega rad problems as well. I tried the 'Coffee Cup V10' and came super close, I am psyched to try it again. Hopefully there will be some good news for an update tonight. Staying Psyched.

Back to L-Town

2008-06-24T12:49:00.000-07:00

I am in Leavenworth for a little rest and escape from the heat. Dont you just love public libraries? It does feel good to be outside and this climbing journey again. Without a car living and travelling and especially climbing is mega mega hard, which is truely a bummer. But whatever it takes right.
Despite the heat I have been climbing pretty well. Mt skin really only holds up for an hour or so a day but I still have a done some great boulder problems. 'The Shield V7', 'Backdoor Ass Attack V7', and 'Drill Sargent V8' all went down and extremely quikely. I will post more as I can but I hope all are getting out there and enjoying some rock-scaling. PSYCHED!!

Index+All the Love=The Life

2008-06-21T21:26:00.000-07:00

Basically I have entered stage three of Washington time. Stage one was actually climbing in Leavenworth and absolutely loving it, just super psyched. Stage two was down time in Seattle while Hayden was recovering from the same wisdom teeth procedure that I had and the climbing of this stage was sparse and tough to make happen. Now I am enjoying and learning a bunch in stage three which is about spending time with the people I love and the people that love me, essentially the common denominator being goodness. I have been snatched up in the loving embraces of the Zimmerman's and we have already shared allot of great times.
Now in stage three the climbing will take stage again. I am heading out to Leavenworth again, this time with the great Graham and Joe. They are going to put in some serious pitch time and I am going to pebble wrestle my brains out, psyched!! Then I get left out there to fend for myself with some ad lib camping, hitching , and hopefully tons of great rock-scaling. I will stay until it is time to get a move on for CA and then to the great South Africa. Wish me luck on my hobo-bouldering adventure.
Today Graham and myself got the last minute chance to go and climb in Goldbar. The conditions were horrible but I was mega psyched to try this rad line called the 'Rubik's Cube V9'. I had a little bit of a heart break sliding off the lock-off last move due to mega heat and humidity. A rough break but climbing is still the goodness and I would rather the heat than no climbing at all. After which we rolled over to the next town of Index which is trying to save their local forests from clear cutting. We gave them some support, talked with them really loe how it brought these great people together. Keep up the good work Joe at the Cascade Land Conservation(CLC) and the people of Index, WA. AR_OUT...

Index, yes Washington has more and more GOODZ

2008-06-19T23:13:00.000-07:00

'Leggo My Ego V7'
'Box Car Arete V8'
Here is the deal, Washington just keeps delivering with good granite and totally unpredictable weather. Brian Boyko, Hayden and myself bunced out of the Seattle metro thrutch to get our selves to some known and lesser known bouldering in Index. Index is rad trad climbing wall area that is very similar to Squamish. As is the case with most granite crags that I know of there are great boulders at the base, just think Squamish with better granite and few people around. I was mega psyched to climb on these boulders that seemed to create amazing moves as well as holds. I climbed something called 'Leggo-My-Ego' which was probably V6 and V8. After which we took a look at the boulder on/in the river that resembled Swizzy river blocks and was shown around around by this rad dude named Joel. Then it started to rain and it looked as though the day was over but we hungout with some super friendly guys Mike and Cole and the rain stopped. We climbed the 'Box Car Arete V8' while it was very wet still. We all did it, but at the point in which you are standing and must make a beached whale like top out Boyko and I decided that our climbing futures were worth just to much and bizzzounced. Another rad day and now I am staying with Mr. Graham Zimmerman and his loving family and hopefully will be climbing outside again very soon.

Pictures from Goldbar

2008-06-18T18:20:00.000-07:00

An amazing V-Fun to warmup at Goldbar
Me sending 'Water V7'
Me Sending 'WaterV7'

Gold Bar Cont'd

2008-06-17T12:46:00.000-07:00

It was kind of a bummer day yesterday hoping that Hayden's car would get fixed in time for some kind of rock-scaling session. But it eventually appeared that it would not come to fruition. But as fate would have a dear friend of mine and monster in the alpine environment, Graham Zimmerman came to the rescue. Graham was psyched on pulling some granite and the fact that we had not kicked it since the days of dirt-bagging in Australia, so that made it a win win, fo sho. We got up there pretty late but climbed some cool aesthetic warm ups and then I climbed this rad techy crimp problem 'Water V7'. Then went and tried this super amazing problem called 'The Rubik's Cube V9', I did all the moves really quickly despite the heat and then fell near the end from the start. I am super psyched on trying it again. It was a rad day that was salvaged from the glooms of a auto bummer and any day spent with Mr. Zimmerman is a good one. Hopefully more climbing in the future.

Goldbar=Thumbs Up----Car Trouble=Thumbs Down

2008-06-15T21:17:00.000-07:00

Here is the dealio, Goldbar, WA is just about the coolest granit that I have grabbed and or seen. It is really amazing how featured and varied the spots are. The forest area was super similar to Squamish and the Clearcut area was amazing and very talus field in nature. Super cools holds that made super cool moves between them. Team Burgle, which usually is compiled of Hayden and myself gained a member today which means I gots to climb with friend Brian Boyko who was a, "Sack-o-potatoes"(his own words) but still climbed the mega cool 'Lighten Up V9'. We all did this rad number called 'Doja V7', and Hayden finished off 'Dave's Problem V10'. Good work to all, for sure a great day. Now the bummer, it looks like the oil pan got knocked up and the car had to get towed. Bummer. But we had some really funny characters as tow-truck drivers. We are working to get back out there and gets back to what we love, Rock-climbing.

Graduation!! & other beautiful things (aka Granite)

2008-06-13T16:23:00.000-07:00

Hayden Miller on Answer Man (V6)

Me on The Terrible (V7) Photo: Hayden Miller

I just graduated from college and I am psyched about it. A wild ride, definitely a great session and one more stage along this trip. After words I really wanted to spend some time in my favorite places in Colorado before leaving and resuming a vagabond existence. So I took my mom and friends up to Mt. Evans, despite the post-holing we made it in for several days of FA's and repeating some of those classic problems in that amazing glacial cirque.
I am now kickin' it with my homie Hayden(H-Mill) in Washington and getting to experience even more amazing granite(i.e. Leavenworth). I have been climbing really well and feeling good and connected with the rock despite the giant wounds in my mouth from a complicated Wisdom Teeth removal. Seriously Leavenworth is amazing and certain boulders have blown my mind and I am super psyched to climb these things. PSYCHED!!